September 2016: UK

Well the weather hasn’t improved as we leave the Cornish Arms, we continue north and really are just ambling along now with no real itinerary or plan apart from getting on wider roads. Its pretty tough to do much with this weather so we head further north and camp at a site near Little Torrington. The countryside is beautiful and the roads wind through the forests on our way there, we camp, hook up the power and look for a place to pay but the reception never opens and we head off in the morning still trying to find someone to pay. Again we continue north and today we stop at a motor home reseller, the site is full of motorhomes for sale that we check out. They allow us to park, hook up power and stay over night at no charge, we are joined by 3 other vans by the evening, we want to stay for a week but unfortunately that’s not possible. As you can read we seem to be drifting along and its true, we are counting down the days till we leave without any real plan apart from some time in Amsterdam before we fly home. The next few days we stay at the Riff Bar, a pub stop, then head back to Wallingford and stay 3 nights at Bridge Villa campsite which by the way is a very nice camp site. We have made plans to drop the van off at the Malvern camping show with Bundesvan and see if we can sell it for our price. So today, Sunday we head to Reading looking for an Ikea where we buy storage bags and containers so we can pack up our van in case we sell it.The rest of this week we stay at a farm stay for a night, a pub stop over at Lower Lode on the river and the last 2 nights at Blackmore near the site for the camping show. Tomorrow we will pack everything up, wash the sheets and towels to pack away and tart up the van. We are looking at another van at the show that has the extra features we want so will see if that is suitable or not. To date we have done about 15000 km touring Europe and the UK over 5 months in the van, hard to believe how quick it has gone by. Highlights are Croatia, Lake Garda, Germany (in the rain), Brittany in France, Chianti in Italy, Anzac Day in France and Normandy. We know we made some mistakes along the way, should have stayed in Croatia and stuck out the rain, plus heading back to the UK too early was a mistake. So tomorrow we drop the van off, catch the train to Birmingham where we are overnight then a short flight to Amsterdam for 5 days before our flight home. Certainly feels a bit wierd to leave the van, must admit I am feeling that I dont want the memories of the trip to end, and there are a lot of memories that skid across your mind as you contemplate a return to normality. Of course we want to return to our families, but wonder what we will feel after a few weeks back home. Of course I am more gypsy than Vic, so we have to meet in the middle on this and plan our next adventure. And really there is no stopping us now…..

Our camp site at Denfurlong farm stay

Our mates at Riffs bar

Our camp site at Lower Lode

 

 

 

September 2016: UK

We leave the Red House Pub early and head towards the south coast of England. The traffic is heavy on all roads and we stop after a couple of hours at a campsite to power up and refresh. We are staggering a bit on our travels, the traffic, narrow roads and average weather is slowing us down so hopefully the south of England is less populated and the roads are clearer. Next day we head towards Bournemouth and Poole and the coast line. We follow the coast along cliff drive and stop at a large car park, the Isle of Wight is off shore and the coast curves to the horizon. Numerous people are walking and jogging along the coast footpath above the steep cliffs, just like back home, except the weather will turn on them soon. We drive further along the coast and to Poole and the coast road here. It’s not a cliff here but has the tides flowing in and out are typical of coasts within the English channel. We head further along and find a Brit stop at Millers Farm Stay, a farm outlet with large farm shop and cafe, we are joined by 2 other vans by the evening.  Next day we head down through Dorset, probably making a mistake using smaller roads as they are very narrow and make driving very hard in a big left hand drive van. Just seems that in the UK there is so much traffic wherever you go so we can’t drive too far without being too stressed out. We head down the coast stopping at a few villages, the odd pub stop and camp site using the main roads to get away from the traffic. Head into Penzance looking for pirates but none to be seen, although I do notice that Penzance is a sister city with Bendigo in Australia. Great ocean side pool here that has been renovated and would be a popular spot in the summer. Our goal is Lands End and we head there finding its a popular spot for hang gliding, with many guys and girls throwing themselves off the cliff face to hang in the air over the shores of Lands End plus the surf looks good from our cliff spot view. We now head up the Atlantic coast and the landscape changes dramatically. After our pub stop at the Britannia Inn, we head up the coast and reach Fistral beach. A very popular surfing area and today they have a contest on once the tides turn. Great walks along the coast and I’m sure its full in the middle of summer, sure looks like a surfie spot as we head through the village with plenty of rentals for surfers. We make our way further up the coast staying at Tehidy camp site near Redruth, voted number one campsite in Cornwall. It’s very nice and empty so we have most of it to ourselves. Tomorrow is Sunday so we want an English roast in an English pub and follow our Brit stops guide to the Cornish Arms near St Ives . First though we go to Padstow famous for Rick Steins hoping to get some lunch there, trouble is so did hundreds of others, we drive in viewing the full car parks and the hoards of people and decide somewhere quieter would be better. We have a nice lunch at the Cornish Arms and park up in the carpark with an afternoon nap. The rain comes in and its miserable in the evening.

View from Lands end

Crazy guy jumping off the cliff

Fistral beach

Fabulous Headlands hotel overlooking Fistral beach

Secluded surf spot at Fistral beach

September 2016: UK

The next morning its overcast, the rain has stopped but doesn’t look good so we decide not to stay for the next day of the show as it’s probably going to pour. Vic has made arrangements to meet Gael her friend from Williamstown on Monday for lunch. Gael and her husband Danny are in London on holiday so we need to coordinate trains and a pub for lunch. We use our Brit Stops book and find a pub stop at Durnford, the Black Horse Pub. Situated in a small village its popular with many turning up for drinks before lunch, they get an extra kick to their takings as the cricket around the corner is washed out and the cricketers all turn up to have a pint. We do wonder who is driving as there are many cars and the roads here are narrow and winding. The weather improves a bit so we go for a walk through the village and the ancient burial grounds around the church which are a bit creepy. It’s a nice spot and we are the only van here for the night, so once the pub shuts its quiet and peaceful. Next day we head off and manoeuvre the narrow roads back to something a bit wider and head back towards London, again using our new Brit Stops book we find a farm stop at Lot Mead Farm, a self pick farm with shop outlet. Its pretty packed with families picking their fruit and veg so we park out a bit and wait till they leave about 6pm. We have one other van with us with open farm land and not much else, another quiet night with the Watson’s. Next morning we head off to Newbury where we will pick up Gael and Danny, we have a few hours to spare and park near the station amongst a group of outlet shops. I do a bit of shopping getting a couple of camper bits and Vic reads in the van till we make our way to the station, double park and wait for the train. Not bad, it’s on time, so we collect our guests and make our way to the pub we chose, the “Butt Inn”. We have a long lunch, its nice and Vic doesnt take a breath for 3 hours, not sure whether Gael did either, might be the Prosecco, but I know she really needs some chat time so it’s all good. Mind you she did get us lost once or twice on the way and back again, too much chat when driving. Anyway we have a lovely day and drop them off back at the station before making our way to another pub stop, the Red House Pub, set off the road and very quiet. We share with 3 other vans by the morning.

Vic, Gael and Danny

 

 

 

 

September 2016: UK

We drive onto the P&O ferry, it’s a simple process really, park our van behind trucks and cars and head upstairs to the lounge area which is pretty empty. Only a couple of hours on the ferry and we drive off and are back in “the old dart” and head back to the camp site we used before we came over, just 10 minutes from the ferry. We meet an Aussie guy about to head over to Europe, travelling with his brother-in-law and had left his wife at home working. Brave man, and he was quick to point out that his mate was his brother-in-law, he is a bit worried about turning up at camp sites with 2 guys. Anyway we swap stories on travelling through Europe in a camper van plus some Aussie news. Next day we need to change some money into pounds so head to Canterbury and use the Park and Ride spot where you can park your camper van overnight for 6 pound and use the free bus into Canterbury, makes it easy. I have been to the famous Church in Canterbury many years ago and we found our way there, incredibly they want 12 pound each now to enter which is totally crazy so we decide not to donate our funds to the catholic church as it should be free. Notre Dame in Paris and the Vatican in Rome are free to walk in so we can’t understand why this is not the same, but have come across it before. We do spend some nice time walking along the river and the original Roman road that flowed through here 2000 years ago. There are many camping options in the UK, unfortunately most of them are expensive and are usual sources don’t offer much. One option is Brit Stops, much like the French Passion offer, problem is its only book form with no app available. I feel we need this option as the online offers are pretty thin. We toss-up the options of mail, but where to?  That doesn’t seem like it will work so we find that they are going to be at a camper show in the next few days. It’s on the other side of the UK but we decide to go and head off on the English motorway, eventually stopping about half way at Wallingford. Its busy but we manage to squeeze in. The town is just over a small stone bridge has a wide canal with many canal boats cruising by. A very English town, going back to William the conqueror in the 11th Century. Also a well-known area for the English drama Midsummer murders which is set here. Next day we off to the Camping show at Shepton Mallet, it’s pouring with rain when we get there, but we camp amongst many camper vans and head out under an umbrella and rain coats. We find our stall selling the book we are after and have a good chat to the owner. Next we check out all the vans for sale, some new and some used, but mostly right hand drive and we prefer left hand drive for Europe. We only really find one or two that suit our requirements as we dash between vans in the rain.

Punting down the river in Canterbury

Hard to see but built out of local stone which was probably taken from the Roman walls

On the right is the original old Roman wall

August/September 2016: France

It’s a beautiful morning in St Ceneri with fog flowing down along the river and a blue sky above. We leave along now familiar roads due to our driving back and forwards yesterday and head towards the coast again, stopping at Sees and a municipal campsite. Some of these municipal campsites are just incredible, run by the council, immaculate and cheap, plus great washing machines so we can get all our stuff washed and dried. We park next to an older couple from Guernsey that are happy to chat to us and show us their motor home. We are interested as it’s a van conversion, different from ours, more compact but still with all the features. We continue on the next morning across the middle of France and stop at a camper stop next to the Seine river, La Maileray Sur Seine. Great spot, very popular obviously, but we manage to squeeze in along the river front along many vans from all over. We watch the huge canal barges flow past on their way to the ports plus the odd tourist barge floats by as we chill out on the river side. Next day we make the coast and again find a camper stop, this one by the inlet at St Valerie En Caux. An amazing coastline here with the massive cliffs running up and down the coast, much like the “cliffs of Dover”. Its a very cute village on the water with small port and secluded marina. There are houses on the cliffs that overlook the port and English channel, must be worth a fortune with those views. Next morning we travel along those cliffs, amazing views and the farm paddocks extend right to the edge, the road continues through isolated villages and farms as we make our way towards Calais in a few days. We stop at a camper stop in Inchevilly, purpose made for campers with a dedicated toll booth and automated gate. Once you pay the fee ( 6 Euro) the gate opens and you park, we get an electrical hook up for only another 2 euro so it’s not too bad, we join 3 other vans parked there. Its a good spot, quiet and open amongst lakes and fields. Next day we make our way further towards Calais and camp at Le Royen Fort Mayon campsite, its raining and wet so we camp and hunker down, books out and some reading is in store. Our ferry is booked for the 6th September so we have one more night and travel up and down the coast trying to find a camper stop. The news out is that Calais is going to be shut down with trucks and farmers striking over the refugee camp. We end up stopping at Wissant aire stop amongst 30 odd campers. Next morning we leave early worried about these strikes, we take the back roads and don’t see anything arriving a couple of hours early for the ferry, no traffic at all and we manage to get an earlier ferry.

August 2016: France

We leave our mate Harry, although he does seem to have headed off to find the next breakfast. Well as I said in the last post we are in D-Day country, so the next stop is Omaha Beach. We stop and I check out the memorial and the beach which generates images from the museum at Utah , there is also a museum here but I have spent enough time in the last one and will save this for another time. We decide to head inland rather than further along the beach and head towards a village that is in the “most beautiful villages of France”. The village is Saint Ceneri-Le-Gerei and after a couple of hours driving we arrive to tiny streets and narrow bridge but find a spot after a couple of u-turns. There are plenty of tourists and a wedding, it’s definitely a beautiful village and we spend some time walking through the streets discovering hidden spots and the old church. We are a bit short of fuel so head off in search of a larger town to fill up, once we fill up and hit the super market we decide to head to the nearest camper stop. Seems a bit recognizable, that bridge looks familiar, ok we have done a big circle and ended up back at Saint Ceneri but find the camper stop down next to the river with the village above us. We have a big laugh, couldn’t find a parking spot when we first came here and now we end up back in a big carpark next to the river, needless to say its a great place to stop and camp. We watch a number a fisherman spend fruitless hours on the small river catching nothing but some zzzs. Cant really blame them its a secluded quiet spot to while away some time.

Classic bridge at St Ceneri

 

Hansel and Gretal’s house ?

River where we camped

Ancient Chapel at the bottom of the village

August 2016: France

Off again and its down the other side of the coast from Cherbourg, just cruising through the beautiful countryside, the weather is nice and pleasant and the traffic not too bad. We have a number of proposed stops along this route but they are either not there or just boring so we keep moving, stopping for some lunch before finding a small aire (camper stop) at Isigney-sur-mer. Supposed to be a stop for 6 vans, we count 20 plus the next morning, parking wherever they can find a spot. Today is D-Day, not literally of course but we are in D-Day territory and I have been wanting to come here for years. Utah beach beckons and we arrive at the memorial and museum. The museum is incredible and I spend hours devouring all the information, unfortunately lose my partner after an hour and she heads back to the van over whelmed. Within the museum they create the whole D-Day invasion on the 6th June 1944, with footage, plans, tactics and outcomes, including numerous heroes of the day and their exploits, plus a reinstated German bunker that was set up at the beach front. The memorial is at the top of the beach and you can visualize the landings along the sandy beach that has a big tide flow.  I don’t mean to sensationalize war, and the millions of deaths that occurred cannot be forgotten, but neither can the heroics and I’m glad they are here for us to remember. I leave regretfully, wanting more information and making a note to discover more of this area and its exploits. I find Vic patiently waiting for me and we head off in search of more, she shakes her head and I agree maybe enough for today. We camp in a farm yard, with a gorgeous dog Harry, who seems to have made friends with every camper to arrive, he’s a typical Labrador and eats everything in site.

 

Part of the German bunker rebuilt and a USA landing craft

Picture of the Germans captured in the bunker

Temporary landing strips that the USA put down on the beaches for planes and trucks

Utah Beach 

August 2016: France

We make our way up the coast of Brittany near the Islands of Jersey and Guernsey, through many amazing villages of Brittany. The stonework of the houses is the best I have seen and the condition of these old homes are a testament to their quality. Would be very easy to stop and settle in this area if you could. We find a camp spot down a very narrow road and right on the coast at the northern point opposite Guernsey. Our view is amazing and we are the only campers here, although many fishermen come and go trying their luck. There is very small farmlet next to us with a mare and her foal. We walk along the coast line for miles and feel special to be in this area, the sunset is perfect at this time of year. We wake to the sounds of the surf and nearby horses, perfect spot. We leave regretfully and make our way back up the narrow entry road, fingers crossed no one is coming the other way, and make it OK. Again we meander through the countryside of Brittany, it’s a pleasure to drive through here and admire the scenery. Eventually we stop at a farm which offers camp stops, not on our own here, there are about 10 vans by the end of the day but its quiet. We do unleash the bikes and head off for about an hour riding through the fields and countryside.

Perfect spot to chill out

Perfect sunset shot

Our neighbours ( get it?)

Classic shot of the coast here in Brittany

August 2016: France

We leave old Trogolot and make our way around the coast towards Ile De Brehat, which is an island off the point near Paimpol. I did think we could get nearer to there but that wasnt the case without a ferry ride so we look for a campsite as the camping spot on the road isn’t too enticing. The campsites don’t really excite us either after looking and we move on searching for that elusive spot. We do pass through many marinas full of yachts and boats before eventually heading back to Hellion and the camp spot we where at a couple of days ago. We drive in like we own the place which tends to happen when you retrace your steps here. Park in the same spot and I make new mates with a man from Yorkshire, lovely man, loved a chat and I was happy to listen. Again we watch the tides which have changed a lot in 2 days, moving in and out. Next day we are off to St Malo, a port with ancient history. Our camp site is at the top of a hill in St Malo and nearby the views are amazing of the old city, port and marina. We unleash the bikes and make our way through winding downhill streets, getting lost a couple of times before crossing the inlet to the port and the Old City. The beach is sandy, beautiful and goes for miles, shame we didn’t bring our sun chairs. We head over to the Old City and come across a group jamming on their trumpets and other horn equipment, young people I think uni students? There are a lot of 20 odd kids around so must be a big uni area. It’s a bit touristy,  but we walk through the streets and around part of the old wall at the top, great views. We ride back and again take in the views. There are many old German bunkers here that patrolled the port area, they are scarred with shell imprints from the invasion at D Day or around that time. ( see header photo) The steel is about 18 inches thick and the marks from the shells looks like a scoop of ice cream taken out, quite amazing really. Next day we leave St Malo and follow the coast eventually stopping at a camp site in St Benoit-Des-Ondes, the coast is moon like with the tide out. Next day we head to Mont Saint-Michel which has always been on my list of places to see, just never been this way before. Its a big tourist place obviously and the car parking organisation does send us into a state of panic,  how many people will here? We should have come at 8am. Anyway we park in the motor home area and walk to the island, crossing the bridge that has been built over the low tide marshes takes us about 45 minutes and it’s a steady flow of people, although many buses flow past. We really enjoyed the time we spent here even though it was crowded, the views are fantastic and the structure a joy to view. We leave about midday and the crowds now are massive so we feel lucky we came when we did. We head off and make our way up the coast of Brittany eventually stopping at Dragey Ronthan and a free camp spot near the beach. The beach is amazing and runs for miles, the next morning we walk the beach, there is no one for miles until we hear the sound of galloping horses. Magnificent racing horses race past us along the beach and head back after  a few minutes, quite a show. We head off from a really nice camp spot, make our way through the amazing Brittany villages and countryside. We end up at a camperstop at La-Vallee, behind someones property but no ones there? We park, hook up electricity and wait for someone to arrive. Never happens, we are the only ones here, its a bit strange, we are in someones backyard and feel like we are trespassing. In the morning its the same, so we pack up and leave some cash with a note in the letterbox.

The amazing beach at St Malo

St Malo marina and the old city in the background

The old city of St Malo

Moonscape at St Benoit-Des-Ondes

Amazing sandy beach at Dragey Ronthon, all those footprints are from horses

The incredible Mont St Michael

 

 

Original walls of Mont St Michael at low tide

August 2016: France

We leave Hellion this next morning and head towards Rosscoff for the “Onion Festival”, the direction is actually opposite to where we where going but what the hell give it a shot. The camp stop when we arrive is packed but we manage to squeeze in against the road. The wind is and rain is coming in so we wait and see whether it will break. After an hour we unload the bikes and head in to Rosscoff, it’s not far about 20 minutes on the bike. Lucky for us the weather clears for a couple of hours and we spend our time strolling through the town and then the festival area. It’s true its an onion festival and we have never seen so many onions, many different types and stalls with onion weavers making those roses of onions you see on “Hello Hello”, the old comedy set in France during the war. So sorry if you don’t know of this, its great, google it, I’m sure it’s on you tube. I’ve attached photos so you will understand. It’s a cute festival, small and quite different from the normal. Funny really, never would have thought we would go to an onion festival but we are glad we did. The camp stop is not that great so we move on and end up at a campsite in Trologot, its ok so we power up, shower and relax.

The “Hello Hello” Onion sellers

I love this tide and the pictures it presents

This is proof that if you drink enough red wine you eventually take photos of basket weavers..

Magic spot at low tide