Islands of Uist July 2022

Its Friday the 8th of July and we are booked on the 10.30pm ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy on North Uist. As anyone who knows us 10.30pm is not our ideal time, but when booking there was no other availability. But the gods smile on us and we are able to squeeze onto the 5.30pm ferry, so a small light refreshment is fine and we drive on with the others. Its only a 2.45hr crossing, smooth and easy as we disembark in the light and make our way to our scheduled stop at Barpa Langass about 15 minutes down the road. The landscape is barren, not a tree in sight, quite an eerie spot with an ancient burial mound on the small hill above us. But its perfect, we are all on our own, a few cars pass around 1pm that would have come off the late ferry, but apart from that its peaceful.

 

The morning is also quiet, no rain in-site yet so we head off and follow the A867 then the A865 before doing a loop around Griminish. At this rate we will circumnavigate the island today! Already we are in South Uist after crossing over the built causeway, time to detour and we turn inland towards our scheduled stop at Loch Druidibeg. Here we are met by a herd of small horses, probably what you would call Shetland ponies, they seem to roam up and down the narrow road considering the amount of horse droppings we drove over on the way in. They are very tame and hang around all the vehicles parked up here. Its a wildlife area, eagle watching and otters as well. True to form we don’t see any.

Next morning we drive to the end of the road to discover an amazing old jetty and views to die for. If we had a 4WD van we would have camped down there. Just a great highlight of the trip so far, it always great how these moments appear from nowhere and really make your day.

  

 We continue further south detouring to the port at Lochboisdale, they have a free facility to empty your van and fill with water which is great, apart from that not much happening here so we return back to the main rd and head south crossing another causeway to the island of Eriskay and stopping at the port which takes you to the Island of Barra. A small rest and we leave, there isn’t much here for us so back up the road before turning down small narrow road, then dirt track to arrive on the beach at Travel Gearraidh Ma Monadh,  bit of a mouthful but wonderful beach, white sand and a calm bay.

 

The winds return overnight and its a restless night. We head off north retracing our steps to North Uist, the landscape is barren, some sheep, quite dull housing and its still windy. We find a couple of nice beach stops but know we will be battered so keep moving on. We eventually stop at Berneray harbour and squeeze up against a large container and retaining wall trying to shelter against the winds. Not totally successful but better than in the open.

  

Next morning we head just a bit further to the top of Uist to a fabulous beach stop at East Coast Beach. Part of someone farm and its a £10 donation in the honesty box. With jackets on we walk the beach round to the point, we have a long chat with a local older guy and his dog which is nice. Its a lovely spot, shame about the weather, even the locals are complaining! In the afternoon we walk the other way along the road past small houses, again stopping and chatting to a lady and her dog. She has a daughter in Perth WA so we exchange stories in the middle of the road, there isn’t any traffic just the odd car. Further on we spy seals swimming and basking on the rocks, its not until we see them that we begin to notice more, they tend to blend into the landscape. There are a couple of lovely stone houses on the coast that have been restored with thatch roofs.

   

Its Wednesday morning, a reasonable night sleep as the wind dropped off thankfully. We are booked on the 5.30pm ferry to the island of Harris, so after a long morning walk around the point we head off to the ferry terminal with hopes of squeezing onto the 2.30 slot. We do get to line up but are left high and dry along with another as the ferry is completely full. Worth a try, we pop the kettle on and put our feet up for a few hours. At 5.30 we board for the short trip across to Harris.

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Skye July 2022

Its Saturday the 2nd of July and we cross to the island of Skye via the bridge. First job is to find the industrial area and a recommended outlet for parts, hoping they might be able to assist with our shower tap issue. Unfortunately no luck so we head to a plumbing outlet but no luck there either, although he did say we could get a part sent there if we needed. Time to rethink the issue so we park up in Portree instead and head off for a look around the small harbour town. The fish and chip shop looks good so we indulge in a serve for lunch before heading off around the coast, stopping at Staffin Bay for the night.

  

Staffin Bay is noted for the dinosaur footprints in the rocks, we found some we think?. Overnight the winds pick up and shake and rattle the van and bike cover. Those who travel in a motorhome will appreciate the dreaded winds overnight, worse than rain for sleeping. Staffin Bay is great spot, the views are amazing plus some great walks through the hills. That was our plan this morning but we wussed out, too windy and raining as well, the Scots would have just headed out. Our ancestors would not be happy.

 

So we motor off along the A855 with a stop at a ruined castle on the headland, here’s Vic all bundled up for the weather…

 

The weather is not being kind so we hunt for a spot thats sheltered and find a small alcove further around where we back in and hunker down, the view is still pretty good though. A much better night is had with this shelter.

Unfortunately the weather gods are against us, the morning is windy and wet so we head to Portree and make good use of the hostel laundrette for an overdue washing trip. I need more coins so head off and find a bakery to spend some money and ask for change, but get directed to the bank next door where after a 20 minute wait are told if i don’t have an account I cant change my £20 pound note, best to go to the post office. Where a lovely lady was happy to give me some change, how times have changed everywhere. Its hard sometimes to get simple help. Anyway our washings all done and dry time to move on and we make our way to stop that advertises a bar with 400 odd malt whiskies, ok I’m in lets go. Like most places now they are suffering with staff shortages so the restaurant is closed and there’s not many in the bar, shame as it would have had a lot more atmosphere, anyway we indulge and enjoy the bar. Its a lovely quiet spot to park for the night, surprisingly we are the only ones here by the time we turn the lights out.

 

The morning is rain free so we put on the hiking boots and head off into the wilds of Skye, once we cross the road, head past the memorial and within 100m we are on our own following a well worn track through the foothills. Occasionally we view the odd walker miles ahead but we never pass another person for at least an hour before we head back. Further along we detour and find a waterfall.

 

Once we return we head off on the A863 towards Neist Point, stopping on the way at Dun Beag Broch, the remains of an ancient community building at the top of the hill overlooking the countryside. Its a magic view, and just us and a few sheep admiring the vista, perfect.

 

The drive to Neist Point is on the typical island road, narrow, one lane, and multiple passing points, plus numerous sheep walking and eating along the road edge. Its a slow drive and I find it and easy drive, the speed is slow, there is no hurry and you just stop and wave as you pass another vehicle. We arrive at the end of the road, its crowded but we find a spot to park. The view is amazing, looks like a fair walk to the point so we decide to wait until the number of visitors falls or go early morning. Its about 2pm, by 4 you cant see past your nose, the fog, rain and wind has descended but people still head off into the mist, maybe to never return who knows?

 

 

Its another wild and windy night and the morning is only slightly clearer, no chance we can walk to the point so we pack up and head off in search of clearer weather, ha. We stop at Talisker distillery for a look, the tours seem to be closed but a quick look around the retail area doesn’t appeal much, Dan Murphy has it all anyway and its cheaper. Just further along we venture up a long concrete fishing pier where we fill with water, one pound for 50 litres of Scottish water, bargain. Another lovely drive up and around the hill brings us to a small fishing port, they have a small parking spot for motorhomes. I manage to have a chat with a local fisherman loading his small boat with pots, they are for crabs and lobster and only a short sail out to drop them off at this time of year. By mid afternoon the weather is winding up, we decide it will get pretty windy here so decide to head off. A short stop opposite Talisker where they have public showers for a pound, Vic needs to wash her hair so its ideal. By evening we are back at the sheltered spot by the whisky bar. Time for a wee dram!

Morning brings more showers, clouds are low and hanging on the hilltops. Across the road is a campsite, we attempt to use their facilities for water and empty but found the only lowlife on the island who refused our money and handed out the abuse. Shame, we sometimes have to ask campsites when there is no other alternative nearby and never have an issue normally. We head back to Portree, there we can empty for £3 but no water, anyway its fine so we use time to do some more washing, walk the few streets, buy some food and wonder how 11 huge tourists buses can squeeze all the people into the small town. Good for the businesses who must have really suffered over the past 2 years. Skye is a beautiful island, shame we have had such ordinary weather, but there are some places we will always remember, tomorrow we catch the ferry to the island of Uist to further discover the Hebrides islands.

 

 

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Early July 2022

Its Friday the 24th June, and we head towards Glascow. We have an important meeting where the Watson and Wilson Clans are to meet. Its been 60 years there abouts since the heads of these clans have met, thankfully its peaceful times now in Scotland 😁. I’m not sure but maybe we met when we where about 4-6 years old and it would have been in New Zealand far from Scotland. My cousin is Gordon, son of my mums sister Diana, its a great moment for us all after so many years and we join Margaret and Gordon for a great catch up and then proceed to tell many stories and tales over some liquid refreshments into the wee hours. Its a slow day on Saturday but we manage a walk around the village before we head off mid afternoon. 

 

Its not far and we are at the famous Loch Lomond where we find a nice park up near the lake. A quiet night is had and we awake next morning to pouring rain and cold wind. Time for a relax day, we don’t move, its Sunday anyway so the books are out and naps are had, perfect. 

 

Next morning we head off, weather is still a bit dodgy, but we follow the road along Loch Lomond stopping at Luss, a small village with links to famous Scots and lovely architecture.

  

From Luss we continue along Loch Lomond before turning at Tarbet and heading west along the A83 with a coffee stop at “rest and be thankful” lookout, top spot for a view.

We continue down the A83 winding along the Loch before a quick stop at Inveraray then onto our stop at a forestry park up at Ardcastle wood. We sit and watch those bloody midges swarming around our windows, which are all firmly shut! For those unaware of these micro mosquitoes, they swarm and attack when it’s dusk and early morning, they are tiny, when you squash one it’s like a pin head on your hand, buggers bite though. Its a lovely quiet stop, no traffic or wind so a peaceful night. Next morning there is some rain, who would guess it rains so much in Scotland 😄. We head off along the A83 before turning north on the A816, Skye being our destination. The weather’s not great and we make our way to Carnasserie castle carpark, its quiet here just a few cars come and go, the rain is persistent so we bunker down and wait. Eventually I decide to head up to the castle, wet weather gear on, its a steep climb up before you reach entrance and behold the amazing ruins set on the hill. OK I’m a castle nut but to visit these structures, climb to the top and view the amazing panorama with all your imagination intact is amazing to me especially when your the only person there. Here are some photos, not sure if they can really represent the moment..

   

We stay the night in the castle carpark, its a quiet night with very little road noise. Next morning we head off and make our way to Oban. Great spot that has dedicated motorhome parking in the town centre. We walk the bay right to the far point before climbing to McCaigs tower for views across the bays and town. Nice spot, plenty of tourists though and they do a lot of boat tours from here as well, and of course ferry crossings to the islands.

  

From Oban we head off towards Glencoe before turning inland and making stop on Loch Achtriochtan, bit of a mouthful but sensational views across the Loch and mountains.

  

Wow what an amazing spot to camp, stunning views and pretty quiet also. Its back on the road and we wind our way to Fort William the last major stop before we cross to Skye. At this point we are a bit stunned by the amount of motorhomes on the road, it seems every second vehicle is one and we have heard this may be the case so the proof is right here. The most strange thing is that when we camp we hardly see one? Maybe they are all in campsites? We find a Lidl at Fort William and they all seem to be camped here, really weird but it takes all types I suppose. Its a big stock up at Lidl just incase the islands are a bit short. Fully stocked we head off towards Skye with a left turn at Invergarry and Loch Garry. We eventually turn off onto a small one way road with passing places and climb the mountains heading for a designated stop. Little did we know that the trucks hauling logs use this road as well, luckily our timing was good and we managed to pull in before meeting one head on. Its a magic spot with views across the Loch, I even manage to cook a BBQ. Next morning I head outside and are attacked by the dreaded midges, little buggers bite me like crazy.

  

Its a quick trip down the hill and we pull in at Eilean Donan Castle, a famous spot being obvious by the number of people here. Its here we pull up next to a large overland truck from Australia, still with Queensland number plates. Story is they have been travelling in it for 9 years, started in Australia, shipped to Singapore and then onward. Here is their map..

 

Eileen Donan apart from all the tourists is a lovely castle, although we didn’t venture inside, just had a walk around it for the great views.

 We now have a problem with our shower, the mixer tap has come apart and does not want to go back together without leaking everywhere. Its a complex combination of plastic parts, cartridge and seals. So we head off to a nearby farm stop to camp and see if it can be fixed. Short story is at the time of writing we are showering with a bucket in the shower! So no luck, many hours spent attempting numerous fixes but failed. Looks like we have to wait until we reach Inverness in about 3 weeks to attempt again with some more parts.

 

Anyway we had a nice stop at the farm and today the 2nd of July we are off across the bridge to Skye.

 

 

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27th June 2022

Its Friday the 17th June, we wait to hear if the part to complete the rebirth of the van is in. During the wait we park up again in Bidford at the park, boy we know this place well, nearly on first name basis with the local dog walkers.

At about 1pm we get the call, be here from 2pm and we will fit the part, its 2.01pm and we are there….

By now we cant really drive too far so we camp in a farmers field with other motorhomers, its on the river, cows are loudly calling and its bliss. There’s a lovely old church and cemetery near by, plus the old thatched roof houses.

 

Next morning with new tyres, brakes and oil we are off, the van seems to drive like new and we roll along heading north, Scotland calls. But so does the fuel tank, my god its £2/litre about 3.80 per litre Austalian. My foot lightly presses the pedal and one eye watches the gauge, all to no avail as we motor from petrol station to station 😜. Our stop for the night is Glebe farm shop in Cheshire just past Stoke on Trent. Its popular being a Saturday but we squeeze in against the fence out of the way. A nice quiet night is had and the sunset over the church is spectacular.

Its Sunday morning and we hit the M6 again heading North. Being Sunday we are dreaming of an English pub Sunday roast. We stop at the Slipway pub located on the Leeds and Liverpool canal, you can park here for free if you eat, no problem we are hungry. Its not really your typical Georgian pub but the meal is fine and we walk it off along the canal. Another quiet night is had.

  

Today Monday the 20th June we reach Lake Windemere and stop at Newby Bridge and the lakeside carpark. Its a shame we cant really walk anywhere, the paths lead to the road or the trainline, so we just sit and watch the lake boats come and go. Ok we have a small nap as well which is becoming a ritual, the driving can be tiring and some roads are tight to say the least. The morning brings a  fuel truck next to us to fill the tanks for the boats. A nice chat with the driver and we gain some tips for the drive further on up the lake and beyond.

 

So we head off and make our way to Bowness on the lake. It’s a nice spot but full of tourists, the walk from our park up at the marina and around the lake to the town was the best part. The boat cruises are very popular with the older generation and there is plenty of them here. We stop at Henly farm in Cumbria for the night, Scotland is just around the corner.

Next morning where off after knocking on the farmers door and paying for the night. He loved a chat and we spoke of those that have left Scotland for Australia. From here its through Dumfries for some groceries and then on the Caerlaverock Castle where we stop for lunch and a walk around the old castle. Plenty of history here.

From here we drive to New Abbey and park up next to Sweetheart Abbey. An amazing old Abbey in ruins but still with awesome beauty. Again the history here astounds us with the stories of ancient times and Scottish tales. Behind our park up there is a bowling green and we watch locals turn up for an evening rollup. As the sun descends the Abbey takes on another look with changing light, its a marvel to view. We are here in a place we have never been to and to be amazed by the surrounds is exactly what we travel for.

 

Next morning where off and make our way to Drumburn viewpoint, Sandyhills for a look before we cut across and we make our way to Caerlaverock Castle, part of the National Trust. Located on a rocky point overlooking the Firth of Clyde. Its a magnificent castle located on 200 acres with wandering paths through the forests, gardens and along the rocky shore. General Eisenhower later President Eisenhower was gifted an apartment on the top floor here after the end of the WW2. We spend a few hours here enjoying the walks and the inside of the castle. Later we camp around in the next bay with views of the castle. Its quite a warm day, mad scots are swimming or sunbaking on the beach. Its a great spot and we enjoy another quiet night.

   

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