May 25th 2019

View across Notteri beach from the tower

 

 We leave Solanas beach after a quiet night and make our way along the coast, stunning views and its an easy winding drive. The first couple of possible stops don’t really suit so we continue on to Notteri beach and park up across from the inland lake and the incumbent flamingoes. We then follow the dirt road towards the beach area and along a man made walkway through the lake and onto the white sand beach. The sand is so fine and soft, the water that blue green colour that is so clear. There are quite a few sun-baking even though its quite windy, but the sky is clear. Our walk takes us along the beach to the next rocky point where another long white beach can be seen stretching along the coast. Later in the day we head the other way towards the marina and onto another rocky point with an old fort. The marina is quite big and there are plenty of luxury yachts and motor boats moored. We manage to stumble upon an M32 yacht racing set up where they were rebuilding the catamarans from containers for the M32 Villasimius cup, quite a few Aussie voices can be heard amongst the crews. These are high speed yacht racing and for more check out youtube for the action. Later that day we are joined by another 2 vans, both German and kite board sailers, seems its the wind here that is the attraction.

Walk to Notteri beach

Pure white sands of Notteri beach

We wake to a stunning morning and head off to explore the point and beyond up through a winding steep track to the old lookout tower originally built to watch for pirates. The views are just amazing, perfect if you have a boat with all the small coves and rocky points. Its a very steep descent down a rocky narrow path to the adjacent bay, cala Carbonara and a very nice beach, if we had a 4 wheel drive we could drive down here but not in our van so we cross that stop off the list. By the time we make it back through the scrub we are pretty well knackered and time for some lunch and a bit of a rest up.

Track up to the tower

Notteri beach tower

View to Cape Carbonara and bay

We decide to check out the coast north of here before heading back to Cagliari and then further south. Its a goodbye to our Swiss neighbours and there 2 young kids, seems to be a lot more younger people travelling here. The wind has picked up a bit as we head past the marina and we make our way to Villasamius and follow directions to a water source care of the App wetap. What we find is a multi tap set up with pure spring water that has been the towns source of water since the 1800’s. Its a few trips with the 20l container and manual fill through the floor hatch but job done. Adjacent is a eurospin supermarket and we top up our stocks plus grab a roast chook at the rotisserie van nearby as well. All set now and we then follow the coast road with a couple of stops that don’t really work for us before we reach Fontana Beach down a dirt road and come out at the beach parking. There are a couple of motor homes here but the wind is howling through and we park up to contemplate our next move. Bit of a nanna nap always helps๐Ÿ˜„. Its only 25km back to Notteri so we agree the wind is getting stronger and may as well drive back to last nights park, which we do. Funny as once we get here there is no wind at all and a walk along the beach is also calm so good choice all round.

Its time we moved on and we want to be in Cagliari before the weekend so we make our way back along the coast, stop at Solanas again for lunch and while away some time so we get into Cagliari around 4pm. For a city its an easy drive in, not a lot of traffic and most of the roads are wide and in good condition. Our sosta stop is about a 30 minute walk from the city centre so we park up amongst the other vans and head off on foot. First past the marina, along the promenade and up to the old castle top. We both feel its ok but not grabbing our attention much. We do pass a couple of the real old world Italian bars that are authentic, the castle top has some fencing around parts, quite a lot of graffiti and seems to be in a limbo. There is a lot of work on the imposing front entrance at the lower level so I suppose its being slowly upgraded. Its definitely not up there with Palermo.

Graffiti all around the castle top

Reconstruction of the ground entrance

 Its a fine but cooler morning and we head off in search of the fish markets, its about a 30 minute walk and we eventually reach the indoor markets of San Benadetto. A multi levelled market that has everything you could wish for in food, an amazing array of fruit, veggies, fish, meat, fresh pasta and sweets. We walked out with heavy bags and totally enjoyed that off the main track experience.

SAN Benedetto market

Fish market

Lobsters

Spinach and Ricotta pasta at its finest

 Checkout is 12pm and its 3 euro per hour after so we are out of here at 11.55 and head down the south east coast only about 40km to Nora where there is a lovely beach and ancient Roman site. There is a big free carpark in front of a wetland with Flamingoes so we plonk ourselves here with another motorhome nearby, pull out the chairs and enjoy some sunshine. Later a walk up along the beach front to the Roman site is pleasant but we don’t want to pay so its a look over the fence and a have a read of what was there. A major Roman site originally with a number of baths. By evening we have another van us.

Roman ruins at Nora

This morning does not look, rain is forecast and by 10am its pelting down. Not much point moving on so we head to the supermarket and back again, its books out and feet up for the rest of the day. The rain does not stop all day and all night, next morning its still pelting down and we are not going anywhere in this so its housework, books, chess and Italian lessons for the day. By evening we have about 12 neighbours all doing the same thing.

The weather is a little better this morning, intermittent showers and wind. We pack up and leave heading further south along the coast. The heavy rains have affected some of the off road parking spots so we pass a few before we reach the bottom of the island. We have a winding seaside drive for about 25km with views of the rocky coastline but nowhere to stop until we get to the bottom. My App WeTap gets another tick as we find a water outlet in a small town and manually fill the tank in the rain. Another stop is on a narrow peninsular where we have lunch but the wind is too strong to stay. Eventually we end up on a dead end road in a small cove with shelter from the coastal trees. Just the 3 vans here tonight and its very quiet and peaceful.

Matzacarra for 2 nights

Its Wednesday morning and the weather has improved much so a quick search for a laundromat and we head off to Cortoghiana about 15km away. A very strange town, we could be in a Communist country not italy. There is a long wide straight road and either side are plain concrete flats, all the same, 3 stories high and definetly weird. The laundry lady is nice though and we get our washing all done and dry after about an hour. There is a Lidl about 10 minutes away so we shoot over there and get our shopping done as well. After some lunch in the Lidl carpark we drive to Portoscuso, although passing through a refinery. There is a new camper park spot there but the facilities have yet to be activated, anyway we park up and take a walk around the small town and marina. There is a large circular fort at the top from the 14C, apparently built as a lookout for pirates from Africa who would try and steal the annual Tuna catch. After a bit of a nap we decide its too noisy here in the town and head back to Matzacarra for the night.

Portoscuso fort

Portoscuso marina

 

 

May 12th 2019

Makari beach
Makari beach

Well if you read our last post you may have wondered where the photo’s were? There is always some issue using this app and it appears I will need to go back to the laptop unless I can sort it out?

If you follow Vic on Facebook then you will have seen them anyway on her posts. For those that don’t do the facebook thing, sorry๐Ÿ™„

After a quick empty and fill plus a supermarket stop we are back on the beach at Makari just below San Vito. We manage to score a better position and spend the rest of the day soaking up some sunshine. Later in the day we are approached by a Kiwi/Aussie who had seen our Aussie flag stickers on the van. Nice guy full timing around Europe in a German Hymer motor home, wife had gone back to the UK for a week and he was batching as they say. Another Civil Engineer with early retirement ๐Ÿ˜Ž, must be the job to be in.

Its another beautiful day as we awake, the sun is warm today and we take a long walk along the rocky coastline. Its a very rugged coastline, the rocks are sharp and jagged and would tear you to bits if you happened to slip and be thrown in to the water. Makes you shudder. We spend the rest of the day enjoying the sunshine, its peaceful and quiet, just perfect.

Makari beach view

Monday morning and the weather has changed so we pack up and finally leave this part of the world, always lovely to spend time in a place, makes you feel like a local for a few hours. We are now heading to Palermo, and after navigating some very narrow streets courtesy of the maniac GPS we arrive at a parking sosta just near the centre. Surrounded by flats we wonder what sort of noise will emanate from these in the wee small hours? Anyway its packed and we squeeze in between 2 Italian vans and settle in. After a bite to eat we head off and walk into the old town past Ponte Nuove, but not before scoffing 2 fresh Arancini that we couldn’t resist. 

Ponte Nuove Palermo

 

Its Mothers Day and the families are out with the Nonna’s and Mums, plenty of flowers being carried and lunch seems to be a hit today. Its a very easy city to walk around, we really only stay within the old central part and many streets are only for pedestrians which makes for easy stroll. Palermo markets are very popular but being Sunday they are not open, we realise we will be back next Friday as we have the ferry booked to Sardinia on Saturday evening. There is definite Arabic feel to the area, the architecture and scrolls all have that theme, as you can see Ponte Nuove has images of the old Arabs on the walls. Palermo cathedral is very impressive and well  worth a look inside, but at €12 to climb to the top doesn’t meet our budget so we give that a miss. 

Palermo Cathedral

On our unguided walk we come across Quattro Canti ( four corners ) which marks the centre of the old city, its impressive and nearby are more churches and fountains, plenty to keep the camera clicking. Its not far and we stumble on a more hip and trendy area of shopping and food. Looks like it would come alive at night as the many closed shutter doors more than likely contain small bars and kitchens. Plenty of live music happening as well, lovely spot. I do seem to manage to get us to Teatro Massimo, Europes second largest opera house, and we manage to encounter the local fire brigade brass band doing there bit for culture at the entrance.

Well our neighbours all behaved themselves and we had a quiet night after all. We make the most of the facilities, including the wifi before heading off and making our way to Cefelu, a beautiful old seaside town with a long beach and large marina. Its here we stop and set up among the fisherman and the multitude of boats of all shapes and sizes. Its an easy walk into the old town along the coast with wonderful views. We have noticed a number of the very large tourist buses parked near us but the town seems to handle it all pretty well and its not overrun in any one area. There is a small bay at the front of the town sheltered from the ocean with large seawalls, then further around it opens onto a large crescent shaped beach. The streets are narrow and cobble stoned, very little traffic apart from the locals and a pleasant place to stroll around. We manage to have some lunch, roast pork rolls with onions, just perfect. Further along we stumble into the main square and the amazing ancient Church that is a centre point to the whole village. Travelling Europe you encounter churches of every type and period, its a thing seems to always draw you in, just a quick look. Over the years we must have visited hundreds, occasionally you feel pretty good about it and this was one of those. The doors at the front are both thrown open and its a welcome that you feel, rather than a dark cloister that you enter through, religion aside, its just worth a visit.

Cefalù

 

We spend 3 nights at the marina, went and emptied our tanks after 2, then returned and managed to get all our washing done at a laundromat, have coffee in the square, some gelati, more pork rolls and timed the weather pretty well on our trips up and down to the village. I hated to leave but any longer and we would have to pay rent.

Cefalù beach

Streets of Cefalù

Cefalù cathedral

3 nights here at Cefalù marina

It was a busy morning in the marina as we head off, the fishing boats were all coming in with their catch and freezer trucks were coming and going. Our first destination Mondello is just past Palermo and apparently a mecca for them in the summer. Our stop is a lonely carpark, broken glass everywhere and just a bit ordinary. Doesn’t take much convincing to move on after a bit of lunch and we head off to Capaci and a beach front stop. I love to see these places as they wake up from the winter slumber and get ready for the summer season. Paint is flying, hammers are banging and its general mayhem as they ready the facilities for a massive influx of Italians on holiday. This is commerce as its best, the cash generated over 2 months will make you stagger I’m sure. Our park up  is next to the water and we wonder how the night will go, there are quite a few young locals meeting up so we keep our options open. With some luck the weather changes, it becomes windy and seems to drive them away like flies, so we have a nice quiet evening.

Capaci beach for the night

 

Next morning is fine and sunny and we move about 100m up the beach to the public area where we spend most of the day in and out of the sun, watching the locals and generally waiting until we head into Palermo to park up. Our ferry is tomorrow at 7.30pm so our plan is get our 24hours in the sosta for €20 and spend the day in Palermo until we need to head to the ferry port. We have booked a food tour as well.

Another lovely day greets us this morning here in Palermo and we head off to meet our guide for the food tour that starts at 10.30am. Georgio is our guide and we are joined by 2 young American couples so its nice and informal and friendly as well. Most of 3 hour tour is spent in the market called Il Capo and we eat an amazing array of local foods and view all the different local markets for fish, fruit and veggies. Definitely a genuine local market even with all the tourist groups heading through. Fresh tuna us €12 per kilo, thats about $18 AUD and they will grill or fry it for you, freshly cut, add a glass of local Grillo white wine and you are set. We enjoyed the tour, learnt a bit about Palermo and their food and culture. The old city is coming alive but there are many old and deserted buildings still, all ripe for regeneration. Its a plus from us.

Amazing tuna at €12 per kilo

Fried small prawns, fish and glass of Grillo

We went for the small cannoli

Washing day at the market

Wild asparagus in the bucket

We board our ferry about 6pm and make our way to the cabin we booked along with our preprepared dinner and wine. Not long and we cast off for the overnight sailing that will take 13 hours.

 

We have quite a peaceful night, although we where very concerned with the paper thin walls between cabins and young families with children next door.

That’s dinner sorted

Anyway Sardinia beckons and we exit the ship about 9 am and drive through Cagliari towards the east coast. Our first stop is the famous Poetta beach and its very long pedestrian road. There are joggers, runners, bike riders and more out enjoying the sunshine, its a long white beach but our park spot doesn’t attract us so we move on. We stop at another 2 stops, loved the views but they didn’t really suit, eventually we stop at Solanas beach, another lovely crescent shaped sandy beach. The wind is quite strong so we are restricted to sitting/napping in the van with the bay views. Its popular here with motor homers, we have about 8 for the evening, its quiet and peaceful.

Solanas beach Sardinia
Solanas beach Sardinia

 

April 25th 2019

Following on from our last post, we have a slow day, Vic is trying to get her back better with ice and hot packs but its not easy. I take a walk up along the lungo mare and into town to see whats happening before heading back to the van. Again Josephine comes to collect us as i attempt to get an Italian sim card for our internet, unfortunately we have no luck but do manage some shopping at the local supermarket. Tonight Josephine picks us up and we have pizza at their place, the chat is full on with those two and we also enjoy local delicacies from the patisserie, including ricotta cannoli’s, ok we only had about 3 each but they are small ๐Ÿ˜‰. Must say that Josephine and Franco have shown us incredible hospitality and friendship that we will always remember and hopefully repay when they visit Australia.

 

We leave Bianco on Anzac day and head towards Toarmina. Toarmina is up the mountain so we find a camp spot at Giardini-Naxos and park up about 1pm, have some lunch and hopefully a siesta. No bloody chance, the bloke next to us thinks he’s Elton John and sings his heart out for hours along with his lovely kids. For those of you that know, its sacred time after lunch in Italy, be quiet everyone is resting, looks like this dude didn’t get the memo. We head off on foot and find another spot before returning and giving them the good news, where out of here sorry. Our next spot is a few hundred meters down the road and we settle in nicely.

Next morning we catch the bus up to Taormina, its 3 euro each return, I would pay a lot more not to drive the van up here thats for sure and for once enjoy being a passenger. The views are amazing, its a very popular spot especially in summer and attracts the glitterati and wealthy, sort of counts us out for then so lucky we manage to sneak in with the plebs. Its a lovely spot, bit touristy but has some amazing views and buildings, it was worth the 3 euro trip, maybe not the 9 euro coffee though. There is a spectacular amphitheatre here but the crowds put us off so we give that one a miss. Vics back is not good so we manage to get the bus back to Giardino for some lunch. Later in the day i check out the beach at Giardino, plenty of restaurants and pay for beach areas typical of the Italian coast. Its a nice stroll albeit on my own as Vic rests up with her dodgy back. By the time i get back its G and T time so cant be too bad can it?

 

This morning we head off and find a Lidl not far away so we can stock up before heading to Catania. Our stop again is out of the main area and we catch the bus into the centre. Mind you we wait about 40 minutes for the bus as we observe the very insane driving the Sicilians seem to consider normal. Im pretty used to crazy drivers so it doesn’t faze me much apart from a shake of the head and “mate your an idiot”. Again i have to nod my thanks to some unreal driving as the bus negotiates it way through the streets with literally millimetres to spare, having to blast the cars that are double parked to move so he can pass. We arrive at the final stop and are instantly lost as we seem to walk in circles before eventually getting our bearings. To be honest we considered it a bit if a waste of time, there is a nice Basicalla and square, we missed the famous fish market but I don’t think Vic was that concerned๐Ÿ˜œ. Our bus transfers seem to consist of waiting for hours so that didn’t really help so we chalk it up to experience, as I always say and Im sure she will back me up here, “ if you don’t go you don’t know”. Im sure Socrates said that as well ๐Ÿ˜œ. At this point I haven’t mentioned our salubrious park up, in the shadow of multi storey flats amongst some stored and what appears abandoned vehicles, stick with me my love I will show you the world, warts and all.

We have a pretty quiet night, the dogs bark only a couple of times so we surprisingly wake later than normal due to the shadow of the flats behind us. Thats ok its Sunday so whats the rush, plus today we are not heading to anywhere there are people. We need some space and I have a spot in mind in the hills above Avola, about 100km along the motorway. Then up a twisting and winding road with mainly bike riders doing their thing, its ok no huge trucks or buses on the corners so we make it up ok. Its a lovely spot, first impressions are not that great but after time it becomes apparent, this is a nice spot to stay. So we do and spend a lovely afternoon chasing the sun and reading our books. We are eventually joined later in the day with another van from the Check Republic, although we don’t really get much of a greeting.

We had a very quiet night and the morning brings blue sky’s so we retrace our steps down the mountain and head towards Noto, apparently an architectural supermodel, shame they didn’t mention Monday is market day but to be honest we should know better. Sometimes it works heading to these hill side towns and you park and walk and its good, other times you are twisting through traffic and narrowly missing cars parked at any position, cause thats what they do, still its their place not ours so you have to remember that. Vic had to actually get out and guide me through, in the end no problem but we didn’t get to see Noto. 

We headed to the coast and a marina park we saw on PFN, by the time we get there its blowing a gale, I’m feeling seasick just looking at the boats being tossed around like corks in a barrel. At this stage we just just slow down, have something to eat and watch the goings on. There is no point just turning around and leaving, give it time maybe it will change. Bugger it didn’t so we head off down the track after a couple of hours and land in a small carpark on the beach at Marina di Modica. Its quiet, still windy but the beach is lovely, a long sandy beach and the water seems to head out with a very shallow pitch if you know what I mean. Perfect in summer and would be packed, at the moment its just us and the odd car that pulls up for a bit.

Its a lovely morning and although there is a toilet dump here i cant find it, ask an Italian camper but her has no idea either. So we decide to head to the town of Modica, a unesco rated old town and only about 20km away. Our destination is a parking spot previously used by motor homes, we find it packed with cars, no room at all, the tourist bus stop has plenty of space but the number of buses coming in put us off, probably a big fine there. We cannot see any other campers parked and the only other way is up into the town, not going there. So frustratingly we decide to head to Raguso, another unesco town and it has a service point to empty our  tanks. Unfortunately the stop seems miles from the old centre and we are at this point not keen a trudge through the endless flats to check out the Duomo. Okay we sound like plebs, but some times its just not working for you so don’t push it. We find a Lidl, stock up and head back to the beach from this morning. Feet up, book out and we settle in, joined later by a young German couple who goes straight to the toilet hatch, so now i know where it is. We have a very peaceful night and wake to gentle breeze, few clouds and lovely view.

Its always a hard choice to leave a nice spot as we never know whats coming next, but off we go with what seems like a fantastic spot locked into the GPS. Its a bit off road but ok for our van, we reach the top and are met by an Italian woman telling me no parking here, ok no problem i say and continue around the corner where the stop is. The views are incredible, its perfect, except now its all taped off with signs forbidding parking, another old woman comes out to give us the bad news, ok we get it. Such a shame, this is an ideal spot but i think there has been some erosion and they are concerned about further collapses, so fair enough i suppose. After some grumbling we head off in search of another camp spot but not before we manage to score 2 of the. Biggest eggplant I have ever seen from a guy heading back from his garden. Then true to form we spend hours on the road, giving a number of spots the thumbs down before eventually stopping near the valley of the temples in a small clearing. We have views of the temples lit up, and no charge!

Well it wasn’t the most peaceful night, we had car doors opening and closing about 2am and that always seems to keep you half awake just in case. Eventually they drove off about 3am and we managed to fall asleep. The valley of the temples opens at 8.30 and we must be the first through at 10 euro each so we can try and avoid the masses on their tours. We have a lovely walk around, the temples are amazing and the views as well. apparently you should allow a day to view the lot, true to our form we are in and out in 2 hours, done and dusted mate that was good. My wife is not one to ponder togas and Greek chariots, its like OK Ive seen that whats next..

Funny enough we end up at another Archaeological site and a lovely park looking over the ocean. We are at Eraclea Minoa with amazing chalk cliffs and brilliant blue Mediterranean sea all the way to the horizon.

Its a very quiet night and we awake to a cloudy morning, after a quick shower we are off towards the west coast. The scenery at times is lovely, rolling hills and vineyards as we roll along the road. We manage a Lidl stop along the way plus a Conad market for their superb delicatessen, ricotta, proscuitto, olives, cheese and maybe top up the wine stash. Ok where pretty full now so we push further along the coast. The weather is turning and we are now heading into a rain bearing front. Our first stop is ok, we have some lunch before moving on to a sheltered stop behind the salt lakes.

Ok it wasnt that sheltered, the wind picked up during the night and we endured a restless night with the van being being tossed about and the bike cover flapping behind our bed. It always sounds worse when you are in bed, outside it was just blowing a bit. We pack up and head off to the north west top corner of Sicily. We leave the salt flats and head up through the mountains to reach San Vito Lo Capo, a stunning spot with crescent shaped sandy beach and large marina. After managing to empty, fill and get Vics hair done we park up overlooking the bay and marina, shame the wind wont quieten down a bit. The beach and water looks so inviting but our timing is just not right so we manage a walk around the town and up to the light house before settling in to take in the views from inside the van.

We cop another windy night with a restless sleep. The morning is cool and windy but we head off to get some fuel and a few bits from the local supermarket. We passed a brilliant spot on the coast yesterday so regardless of the howling gale we head there and park up, its only about 5km down the road. Already a couple of vans are parked up here, its blowing a gale but the views are fantastic so we sit and look and read and eat and eventually nap ๐Ÿคช as you do. You always get to a point that its do we move or stay? No we stay and the wind slows a bit in appreciation, its a beautiful coast line here we could stay for days with the right weather, we will see what tomorrow brings…

 Well this morning is fine, the wind has receded but the clouds are persistant and the sun peeps out now and again. We head off for a long walk along the coast, its peaceful, rugged and absolutely gorgeous, we walk along the tracks following the coast line and there is only the odd fisherman, no snakes or goannas here so feel free to walk with abandon. Just the odd old bloke with a “ lupera” im not even sure that is the right spelling for mafia shotgun?? Anyway I’m just kidding so dont panic, its very quiet and we love it. The clouds are clearing,the wind has died and we just want to stay. Unfortunately we need water and emptying the bits so we head back to San Vito Lo Capo and complete the empty/fill at a camper stop for a few $. With a quick supermarket stop for wine we are all set so we head back down the hill and park up on the beach for the day, just perfect.

Next morning the ocean is flat, the sky is trying to clear but its still so happy days. We head off and walk to the base of Mount Cofano, it a 10k round trip following the coast, we are basically on our own, only the odd car and fisherman. We spend the rest of the day chairs enjoying the sun and scenery. Bit perfect really, so make the most of it, and we do.

Ok so nothing is perfect and we are made to pay as the wind picks up about 2am, its ferocious and the van rocks from side to sie, sounds like the bike rack is going to be ripped off. Of course its always worse inside, I have said this before? Sorry starting to repeat myself, anyway pop outside and its windy but not cyclonic so back to bed and try to grab some sleep. 

We would love to have stayed some more but the forecast is not great so we pack up and leave, back to San Vito, quick empty and supermarket drive by before heading to a park at the entrance to Zingaro National Park. Its pretty crowded although we manage to park ok. We spend the rest of the day watching all the walkers arrive then leave, some after 1 hour others all day. Must admit I feel a little guilty not doing the walk but its the number of people that put us off, crowds, narrow track, not good. We decide we will  do it in the morning and feel much better after that commitment ๐Ÿ˜

 Its an early start, 6.45am I hear the workers come in, although I have an inkling they are all volenteers. We head off down the track after paying our 5 euro fee, pretty sure where the first on the track and we dont see anyone until we return about an hour later. It is demanding walk, narrow rocky and with many ascents and descents, the old heart rate was up and down but still hanging in there. Maybe a couple of reds less the night before could help ๐Ÿ™„. It can be a recurring theme but I can tell you the scenery and views are stunning, this is Sicily at its finest and most pristine. The whole walk is about 4 hours but we pull the pin about half way and head back along the coast. 

Looks like we timed it well as bus loads pull up as we get ready to leave. Our original intention today was to go to Palermo but we see the weather looks like being warm so now we have a predicament. Warm weather in a city is not that great, maybe we can go later? Quick answer is we are back at the beach near San Vito, ha ha.