Its Monday the 11th September and we decide to pack up and head around to Toscalana Moderna and have a day or two there. By the time we park up its is pouring with rain so we again sit it out hoping for a break, which we do get around 1.30pm so we unload the bikes and head off looking for a bike repair as Vic has a puncture that we manage to keep inflated while we look. I know a place but its closed so we do some grocery shopping and by the time we get back it opens at 3. All fixed, 10 euro and she is all set. The afternoon stays fine and we drag out the table and chairs and relax in the sun till it cools off once the sun disappears over the horizon.
We decide next day to head off and continue south looking for more sunshine, our destination is Piedmonte and around Alba and Asti, famous for the wines produced in these areas.
We follow the SS45 until we hit the E70 towards Piacenza, along the way hitting a massive traffic stoppage where we are static for long periods of time. Its one of those where people are out of the cars standing on the road with nothing moving, we eventually make the detour and after circling around through minor roads we end back on the E70. We exit at the SP3 just before Alba and climb the hills to a camp near Mango at the winery La Trava. Amazing area and we manage to grab the last spot overlooking the vineyards, its perfect and the sun is out. These are the places you travel for and endure hours of driving to find, we feel lucky to have found such a spot, plus the owner Maria is just so happy to see you that you feel very welcome. Well we are not going anywhere so out come the chairs and table and our amazing view is spread out before us. Piedmonte is the poor cousin of Tuscany, not as many famous old towns but the area is amazing and well worth exploring.
Next Morning we take a walk up to the village Mango and some shopping at the small supermarket, fresh bread, ham and local cheese for our lunch, strolling around the few streets where it varies from totally rundown to pristine properties and of course the views from every corner. It was quite cloudy this morning but by 1pm it has all cleared with sunshine and light winds. During the afternoon we watch the arrival of a trailer load of Barbera grapes that are crushed and pumped to the vats for initial fermentation. The whole operation is very efficient and most of us that are camped here are watching the process.
We asked Maria about the wine tasting and its all set for 7pm, so we postpone dinner or I should say prepare it and join 2 Swiss and 2 French couple for a detailed degustation of the local wines. Maria does exceptionally well with all the language differences and for us we find it quite easy to follow her Italian with bits of English thrown in, surprising how much you do remember once you are in the local environment. We sample about 8 wines including a couple of whites we have never heard of, plus the Barbera, Nebbiolo and even a Spumante. Had a lot of fun, learnt more about the local wines and wine making in general. I chat to one of the Swiss men and tells me of a dinner organized for tomorrow night at a local family agriturismo so we agree to go and book, along with another Swiss couple. We did think we would leave tomorrow but grab the opportunity to see what eventuates.
Its Thursday the 14th of September and we awake to heavy cloud cover and its pretty cool so we hope for a repeat of the last few days where the cloud burns off after a few hours. Spend most of the day inside, it’s too cool outside, we feel guilty not exploring more but really this spot is as good as it gets. Later we do go walking through the vineyards for a bit, taking it all in and enjoying the sounds of farming, tractors, dogs always barking, the odd chook crowing and the simplicity and beauty of it all. Our dinner date tonight isn’t until 7.45pm, which to those that know us is a stretch, so we have a little antipasto, a glass of prosecco and glass of wine while we stretch out the time until we are picked up and transported to our destination. The meal is nice, we did expect more people but it’s just us and the 2 Swiss couples, we enjoy the meal and conversation, at times we had no idea what they where saying but to their credit they swapped to English many times, nice people and we had already decided previously that Swiss are friendlier than some of their neighbours, and proved by this evening. The meal is 6 courses and coffee, costs us 70 euro including the wine.
Friday morning we awake to the clouds very low in the valleys, making some of the hill tops look like mountains in the sky, quite incredible. We pack up, empty and fill all the appropriate tanks, pay our bill, at 8 euro per night it’s too cheap Maria but thank you for your hospitality.
We are heading south again, who would guess? We head to Mango via Google maps, then down a bloody goat track till we hit the SP592, nice drive just not in a motor home that just fits the width of the road. Actually would be a great bike ride, well down hill anyway. We make our way towards Savona stopping at Lidl for a big shop and stock up of essential goods, like wine and Gin, no just joking, we bought bread, cheese and ham too. Our destination is Finale Ligure and a camp spot on the water we know, we arrive about 1.30, have lunch and collapse for a couple of hours rest. We camped here last year, its right on the water, just for motor homes and 18 Euro a night so not too bad as its convenient and a nice view. The weather changes and becomes cool so no BBQ tonight and we revert to inside cooking and watch a movie.
Its Saturday the 16th September and we awake to a fine day so we figure we will stay another day and walk into Finale Ligure along the beach side boardwalk, there are plenty of people walking and also heading for the beach as the sun is out, but I would think there is half of what would have been here in July. The town centre has a typical Italian pasta shop where we stop and buy fresh pasta and pesto sauce, also a nice delicatessen for sliced roast beef, pork and marinated olives. Perfect just what you want when you are in Italy. Next stop for some bread and we are set for lunch. It’s a sunny day so we make the most of it with chairs out, feet up and books open. Next morning Sunday we head off following the SS1 along the coast about 20km and book into a camp site, camping Baciccia near Ceriale for a couple of nights. The sun is out and Vic is by the pool within minutes of parking, ha ha. We will just chill for a couple of days and decide where to go next.