Next morning we leave our remote Romanian campsite after a chat with manager we find out that volunteers run the whole place and they look after abused and abandoned children of various ages, plus hold camps for kids of all ages that are doing it tough. Lovely people, the guy we met had been here 10 years volunteering.
Our road out is gravel one but actually not that bad compared to some of the normal roads we have been on, and we eventually reach a bridge and head across to a main road.
We would rather not drive too far so we head towards a camp spot near Turda, some might say it’s a crap place Turda, but so far we think its ok.
Eventually we find our little camp spot via some back roads and the odd sign. Lovely spot run by Nico and Lucia, two Romanians that where living in Holland and moved back here, I think, hope I got that right. Anyway lovely people who showed such joy that we where here and gave us heaps of information and also a wonderful cake for dessert. A storm rolled in early afternoon and the rain came soon after lasting till early evening, then again through the night.
Its cold this morning but clear so hopefully a nice day. Seems a bit weird putting jeans and a vest on after living in shorts and a t-shirt for months.
This morning we head off to the Salina Turda salt mine, arriving just before opening at 9am and joining a queue of about 50 or so people. It is really quite amazing as we decend into the mine, firstly along the pathway then steps all the way to the bottom. Incredible view of a mine, just stunning, shame about the commercialism at the base before the lake but lucky its early and not much happening on the mini golf, table tennis tables, pool tables, Ferris wheel and more, I kid you not. Apart from that its great we really enjoyed viewing the mine, seeing the amazing surfaces and its huge size, recommended, just go early.
We manage a quick Lidl visit in the town and stock up on essentials before heading to Turziis gorge and a nice hike up along the river through the national reserve and along the cliff face for about 2km. It’s a great walk and we enjoy the exercise as well. Nice big cave at the end, although a steep climb up to it so keeps most people away.
Its now mid afternoon and we return to our camp spot with Nico and Lucia and are joined later by another couple of vans. Lucia brings us soup and later some Schnapps to warm our bones as its getting a bit chilly, never been in a camp spot where this happens, maybe stay for a month?
Unfortunately no we don’t stay and next day make our way towards the inland glacier, but first I need to get another vignette as our 7 day one has expired yesterday and we may have copped a fine on our way to the gorge, time will tell I suppose. For about 120km we are on a bone shaking and thumping road before we turn off and wind our way up the mountain to the glacier entrance. It’s a bit of a walk up to the entrance and we wait to allow the previous group to exit. The descent is down about 300 steep narrow steps and we land on the glaciers boardwalk. Well worth all the effort to get here and we enjoy the chilly views and walk around the cave with its icicles and solid ice base.
A quick drive back down the mountain and we go looking for our camp spot but after 4 drive bys on the coordinates and a look up and down the road we give up and camp at a small odd campsite on the main rd for the night.
After an uneventful night we head off to Oradea near the Hungarian border. The same road as yesterday now provides us with a smooth ride down the mountains through the forested alps, the views are stunning and we pass numerous groups of large cows on the road, generally 2 or 3 with a shepherd. Lovely ski area’s and certainly looks in better condition than the ones we saw in Bulgaria. We arrive in Oradea about 12pm and park up just near the old town for about $2. This is a beautiful town and a lot of money has been spent and continues to be spent on the lovely old buildings and squares. We enjoy a few hours walk around, sample some of the street food and generally take it all in.
As far as a camp spot there’s not much on offer except a camp site across the river and its 25 Euro which doesn’t impress us much but its that or drive on and that is not an option either so we make our way there still grumbling about the cost, its Romania not France. Its rather odd, we enter via a very narrow street and it seems deserted, the first building is in disarray inside but further round there is a pool and chalets plus a small restaurant that is all set up. About 30 minutes later we get some action and meet Adam who runs it. We get all parked up and connected then it’s a welcome drink of 60 proof firewater and we are all set. Adam is a pretty nice young guy and even heads off for some tonic water as we inadvertently have run out and that’s a minor disaster. 20 minutes later he is back with Schweppes tonic and she is happy. The sun is out and we enjoy an hour out by the pool before it becomes cool again. A huge pack of marinated ribs care of Lidl are well cooked on the BBQ and all is well with a bottle of wine.
Those ribs where so good that next morning we detour back and buy some more. We reach the inevitable border crossing into Hungary and again are detained while my passport and vehicle documents are rigorously scanned before we are let free and head off towards Budapest. An easy but generally boring drive gets us to the city centre we are directed via our GPS to a camping site where we park up with other like-minded souls. Or so we think, but as it generally goes in these campsites you are ignored or can only get a hello if your are lucky and the Brits always look the other way. No offence to our many Brit friends and acquaintances we have met along the way but Im sure there is a nod there. It’s a shame but I am coming to really hate these large impersonal camp sites and they bring a dark shadow over your day. Anyway enough of that and we unleash the bikes and pedal our way into Budapest, firstly along the Danube and then over the bridge and back again through the old city. We do lock them up and walk through the pedestrian mall but its a tourist trap like most cities. There is a large undercover market with its salami sellers and fruit and veg sellers which is nice.
Along the Danube we stop and admire the large number of cruise boats moored, deciding which one we will take. Of course it’s the one with the nice out door balcony off the suite, hate to think what that would cost? Further along we have to carry the bikes up steps from the canal to the road and an Aussie guy who is cruising the Danube on one of these massive barges assists Vic and we have a quick chat.
We would like to stay longer but our negative thoughts on the camp site drive us out and we get our reward with city traffic and it takes us an hour to leave the city plus 2 wrong turns, ha.
Its only about 20km to the small town of Szentendre although we find it difficult to actually locate the centre, eventually parking and discovering the myriad of streets and their somewhat odd assortment of shops, some tacky tourist crap and some genuine local products. The weather was not kind and the rain came not long after we arrived, shame really, the walk along the river looks great and apart from some of the tourist stuff it’s a nice village.
We travel on endeavoring to find a camp spot, but not much luck at the ones we stop at, eventually stopping up the mountain at a car park under the trees, the rain is falling and it’s a bit chilly, but a very nice spot. We spend the night alone.
Next morning we head off early further up the mountain to the ruined castle but we are too early and the car park is closed off so we cant really sit and wait and bugger that I’ve seen better so off we toddle back down the mountain.
Following the Danube we arrive at Esztergom and quickly check we didn’t make a wrong turn and have ended up in Rome. Kid you not this Catholic Church is humungous and surely would slot straight in next to the Pantheon. Strangely though there is no stained glass but the interior is classic Roman Catholic. A quick look around and were out of here as busloads of tourists start to pour in.
Our predicament now is this, too much driving and my back is sore so I’m becoming Mr Grump but the options are few and far between around here. We progress to a Lidl stop and replenish our pantry, have a coffee and study the map and our parking apps. Our destination is Croatia in 2 weeks to meet Liam so its not worth heading into Slovakia and we do want to see Lake Balaton so we spy a stop about 30 minutes away at a camper shop. Its fine but bloody boring so we agree to head to a camp spot in the hills above Budapest. Now from the map we assumed we would be driving through wooded countryside but in fact we are now in the outer suburbs of Budapest, winding our way through lovely suburbs and up into the hills overlooking the city. The camp site is tiny and a squeeze to get into but we park up and are met by the very friendly owners who may have thought I was grumpy, I’m a bit knackered at this time with the driving and not really up to a friendly chat sorry. A little later after a nap I make it up to them with a chat about their dog and yes tell them not all Australians are so grumpy. We are not far from the centre and could have headed in but the rain is persisting and getting heavier so we stay put and have a restless night with very heavy rain pounding the roof above our heads.
The morning brings showers and mud all around us, we pack up and make our way out of the compact site with the owners son’s help.
We are now driving through a very nice area of Budapest, leafy lined streets, big homes and cars, we call it the Toorak of Budapest.
Our drive now is to Lake Balaton and most of its on the motorway and the road is good. We have seen a lot of police cars and speed cameras in the past few days in Hungary, very different from the past 3 months. Hungary is really like any other European country and definitely not backward or lacking in progress.
Tihany on Lake Balaton is a tourist magnet and we find that out as we attempt to find somewhere to park but its madness and our final attempt finds us at the bottom of the hill about 3km away. It’s a toss up do we walk up or take the bikes? Hang on what about the thousands of people pouring in there? Hmm, I think your right, we will get up there and go mad over the crowds, might be best to come back at 8am one day. Time to reassess and we pick a camp site about 25km away, its cheap and we can just relax.
The rain is still around but seems to be clearing hopefully and we manage a BBQ without being drenched.
Next morning its clear and we take an hours walk, then breakfast and a bike ride up through the vineyards via a very steep road which is very busy with walkers. There are a lot of restaurants along the way and at the top so we figure they are all heading there for Saturday lunch, who knows? Thankfully its all downhill from there as we are a bit knackered after that steep climb with the bikes, the view was good though.
We make our way back through the villages and it’s a very nice ride, we pass many small wine sellers, not cellars, as of course they all make there own wine here plus brandy from every fruit grown.
It’s the weekend and we pass a few groups of guys heading into the campsite, seem half pissed already so looks like a party place tonight. Proved correct at 3am with the the thump thump music happening.
We are happy to leave next morning and we head to Keszthely and an amazing castle which is now a museum. Its very French and would not look out of place along the Loire or adjacent Versailles. Inside is a small cafe, there is no one inside apart from the waiters and its is full of clocks, all sizes and shapes, just amazing. But I find it strange that none are working? I just want some one to ask me if they can help, the answer is on my lips: “I’m the clock winder and I’m here to wind the clocks”. Amazingly they ignore me. Very nice to see, not too many tourists and the town is equally as nice.
up north about 30km to a lovely campsite overlooking the landscape. The weather is nice and they have a small pool where Vic is headed and absorbing the rays. She spends the afternoon on her own, perfect.
These sites are the best, although I must mention if they where full it would be a different experience I’m sure. Anyway we make the most of it and stay 2 nights at $20 per night.
This area of Hungary is well known for their thermal pools and spas. All volcanic water and mud that attracts the elderly and infirm, sounds like me lets go!
We are camped only a few miles from Haviz where there is a massive pool, hospital and all sorts of treating rooms. We pass numbers of people carrying their flotation devices and some with dressing gowns on as well. The place looks great but the price is ordinary at 10 euro each for the 3 hours, and we think 10 minutes will do us, so we give it a miss.
We manage to get a feed at the local food court, didn’t understand a word of the menu except hamburger so we went with that. It was ok, and about $4 each. We had fun working it all out and enjoyed our time here. Manage to work off the hamburger with the ride back as most of its uphill!
The wine they sell in the camp shop is very nice so we top up some white and red at about $3 per litre, my subconscious is already screaming danger as these 1.5 litre plastic bottles never seem to have a natural indicator of that’s enough Dean.
The vignette we purchased ends today, it was a 10 day pass and we figure that will do and make our way across the border to Croatia. Its not far, about 30km and we cross over with 18-degree temperature and heavy rain. Oh boy Croatia never seems to welcome us? We manage somehow to end up on a Toll rd, bloody Sat Nav keeps reverting back to its original settings, but luckily its not far and only about 5 Euro.
Our camp spot seems to have disappeared as we head down a back road and pass the coordinates that we programmed in from Camper Contact. We pull up about 200m past and relook at the web pages, but the internet isn’t good and I place the modem and aerial on the roof to attempt a better connection. Turns out I would have been better to revert to the old fashioned method of stop and ask. Ha modern technology gone wrong. Anyway the owner Kruno taps on our door and asks if we after the camp spot? We follow him back about 100m and park in his front yard. Kruno and his wife Carine welcome us with open arms and we settle in on our own. The weather improves and actually starts to warm up a lot, so know I think it might be better to turn the van around and have the shade on the door side. Oh bugger we are stuck, the wheels are spinning and we appear to have sunk into the grass and soil. Now we are experts at knowing this is a problem, its happened before and a quick look agrees with our sad shakes of the head. Of course its never happened before here so it takes a number of attempts, a neighbouring farmer and shovel, plus a lot of stones and at least 6 efforts before we escape onto hard ground. Everyone is relieved and retire to gather their strength. After dinner we join them for a drink on the patio, the painter working there joins us also and somehow we have a schnapps drink-a-thon and boy I am hung over next morning. That stuff is deadly at 60 proof, mind you I enjoyed the different types and the honey they have was exquisite. Each one we tried of the honey was from different trees and flowers, totally amazing and such a great experience for us. The painter who spoke no English was just happy to sit and be with people from Australia.
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