Its not far from our last stop in Mareuil-sur-Ay to Mutigny in the hills of Champagne, and we head there in the morning to park up in their camper stop. Supposedly there is a tour through the vineyards here, so I head up to the village to the “Marie” (the town hall) and arrange a tour at 2.30pm with the delightful lady named Laurence.
We have a lovely walk through the champagne vineyards, with Laurence who fills us in on the details of champagne, the grapes, the individual plots, the pruning and its production. Finish that with a few glasses of champagne and we are doing pretty well. Its a great tour and well recommended to understand champagne outside the norm of Moet and the large houses.
With a few bottles under our arm we head back to the camp spot well pleased with that little excursion. So tonight we have some Scots, Poms, Dutch, Belgiums and a Frenchman camped up. Champagne draws everyone together.
Its now countdown till we leave, hard to believe how the time can suddenly fly by, I know its tough but we get through. Our ferry is on Thursday back to the UK, we have to get the aircon looked at, wash everything then store the van till next year. This year we fly out of Stanstead airport, and are camping up with Jane and Dave for 2 nights before we fly to Rome. We have three nights there and then fly to Hong Kong for a night before we arrive back home on Sunday 2nd September.
The last couple of nights we have spent heading towards Calais. Last night met an Aussie couple that have a canal boat and travel 9 months of the year along the canals. We leave next morning looking for a washing outlet on the way and stumble upon a purpose made Karcher washing machine area by chance Its a free standing unit with commercial washing machines and dryers, so we manage to wash just about everything and now don’t have to worry once we get back to the UK.
Tomorrow we catch the ferry at 8.30am from Calais then have to negotiate the long drive to Birmingham on the UK motorway. Not really looking forward to that. An addition here, it took us 6 hours of highway hell to get to Birmingham, it wasnt the time just the continuous stop and go and the horrendous M25 which is like driving an Australian outback corrugated road.
This year we have driven about 13000 km, visited 11 countries, some numerously and consumed over 500 litres of wine and not sure how many bottles of gin. OK slight exaggeration on the wine but we tried all comers and we give Greek wine a 1 star, French 5 star, Italian 4 and half star and all others 3 star. Lidl is always the best for a cheap Gin and Scotch and at times we bought a good gin for $8 AUD. Mind you wasnt all about booze, we had some food as well and did very well across all countries. Italy still has the best food, but this year France has delivered some magnificent cheese and wine.
The last couple of days we could have easily turned around and headed back south, the pull was that strong, but we have bookings, family and business so we need to head home. Maybe another year?
If you have been reading this blog, then thankyou for putting up with the bad grammar and punctuation, but hopefully enjoyed it as well.
It does take quite a lot of time to put together and at times its done with a wine or two under the belt so apologies for any random remarks that may seem disturbing….
We leave and drive to Beaune, a classic French town, famous for its wine and architecture. The big church also has some stunning stained glass. We have been here before but it was a few years ago and it still has a wow factor. Plenty of tourists as you would expect, and today has a market where we buy some local cheese and meats.
Beaune
Not far from here is a French Passion stop at Dury Bernard winery, we stopped here last year in September. Lovely set up, with fridges full of their wine, help yourself and its an honesty system. It has 5 spots but by 10pm I think we had 8 vans here.
French Passion stop at Dury Bernard winery,
This morning, Thursday 9th August, the rain comes and we have intermittent storms passing over, just sitting here waiting to see if it clears before moving on. I reckon we should go, Vic says its going to rain all day and we should stay. We stay, she is right and the rain comes in most of the day. Luckily we have free wifi so we catch up with some of this blog and other bits so its not so bad. Of course their wine fridge is always calling, “ Dean Dean we haven’t seen you for a while, come visit us” As if I am tempted by such obvious taunting?
OK eventually I give in and enjoy the magnificent Borgogne wines, just perfect.
Say no more
Next morning it’s clear and cool and we head off from Dury Winery and make our way along a route that is in my back roads France book. Takes us back through Beaune and on towards Chateau de Savigny.
Our drive is through classic Grand Cru vineyards and we arrive at the parking area of the Chateau. A magnificent Chateau but it looks a bit distressed from the outside. We pay our entrance fee and progress through an astonishing array of racing cars, vintage motor bikes, a huge outdoor display of jet fighters, vintage fire fighters, massive array of model aircraft, more motor bikes, and the Chateau as well. We are stunned by the quantity and although we are neither motorbike nor racing car enthusiasts it is a magnificent display. I can understand why the Chateau is a bit worn, it’s either fix the windows or buy another vintage motor bike, no question it’s the motor bike.
If you are near here then I suggest it well worth a visit.
Some of the Abarth race carsPart of the jet fighter collectionChateau de SavignyPart of the motorbike collection
We take a walk around the village, buy a baguette, check out the church but its all locked up so then move on and head towards Nuit St George. Again we are driving through the classic vineyards on quite narrow roads but there isn’t much traffic so its an easy drive. We only stop at Nuits St George to take advantage of a motorhome service point and empty our tanks. Pencil it in for another time and head off towards a camp spot on the Bourgogne canal at Vandenesse-en-Auxois. Lovely spot, we camp up with 3 others and watch the canal boats head up and down the Bourgogne canal plus bikers riding along the pathway.
Stunning camp stop at Vandenesse-en-Auxois
Next morning we unleash our bikes and head up to Chateauneauf –en-Auxois, we bike along the canal before heading up the steep hill to the Château and village, its not long before we are off and pushing the bikes up the hill. It’s a lovely castle with parts from the 13th Century, and an interactive centre to give you all the details in English. Very nice well worth the fee after a hard push up the hill. The village is small and attractive as well. Luckily once your up the hill its all down from there, and we cruise back down, around to the large reservoir and eventually back to Vandanesse and some lunch. We spend another hour or so riding up the canal along its bike path, it is very quiet and we only see one of two boats and a few bikers. Back at Vandanesse a large converted barge arrives with crew and a few Americans, we check out the prices online and have a fit at the cost at $20000 USD for 6 nights and 6 people. Bit out of our league there, we will stick with our budget travel. Looks like the 2 weeks on the canals is sunk?
Part of Chateau ChateauneaufBurgundy canal
Next morning the locals market is set up next to our camp spot and we stock up with local cheese, bread and veges.
We are following a suggested drive through Bourgogne and head off towards Flavigny-sur-Ozerain where Julius Caeser camped in 52BC, we do pass the sister Chateau of Chateaneuf in Commain, looks spectacular, but Im on a restricted Chateau allowance from the boss so couldn’t stop here and will save it for another time.
Flavigny is famous for 2 things, the aniseed sweet originally made by Benedictine Monks for the Pope in AD873 and the Abbey which houses an amazing crypt. For those that remember the French film Chocolat, its houses and shops here where used as the backdrop. So we try and then buy some of the anis sweets, and view the crypt plus a walk around a very nice village before heading off, with a stop for lunch under a shady tree as its warming up again. Not far from here are the remains of a 2000 year old Roman town and fortress. I drive up to the entrance but decide against entering, again my allowance is a bit short and I will just end up walking around pretending to be Pontius Pilot so that’s not good. Again for another time, it’s chalked in.
Ancient Abbey Crypt
We head off looking for a camp spot, first is a community camp site at the bottom of the hill, but doesn’t entice us so we head off. I have a winery on the list so even though its about 70km away we decide that’s a better choice. Lovely drive through French countryside on minor roads, we cross Bourgogne canal a few times and pass through some open farm land before arriving in Chablis and then onto Domaine Alain Geoffrey where they generously offer free parking and power for motor homes. Shame it’s a Sunday and they are not open, hopefully tomorrow we can sample their wines.
A lovely Chablis
Overnight we had very heavy rain and thunder, but woke to a clear day. Decided to head to Auxerre, a large town and do some grocery shopping as they had a Lidl. On the drive in we approach the town from above and it looks quite industrial. We are about to leave after shopping and I mention to Vic there is an Aire by the river so maybe we should check it out and have a coffee. Pretty stunned by the views as we park up. There is an old city across the river and towering over it are huge church spires. So we agree to unleash the bikes and make our way over the bridge to enjoy a really old and quite enjoyable old French town. Its funny what you can stumble on at times and its well worth the effort to visit here. We decide to ride on to LeClerc, a large supermarket, and hopefully get a cooked chook, which we do. Plus more cheese, meats and we need to leave now before we buy everything, its such an amazing array of fresh food.
Auxerre old townAuxerre across the Yonne river
We head back to Domaine Alain Geoffrey and park up on our own, later joined by a van from Sweden. About 5pm we head over for a wine tasting and are joined by the Swedes as we taste a full selection of Chablis wines with the owners daughter. She is great, speaks English and we have a great time trying the wines. They also have a museum of cork screws, and other wine related items, its done very well and well worth a visit. We leave with a 6 pack.
Later that night we are joined by another van that has French number plates and we assume they are French. Its not till later that Pete approaches, hearing our accent and he is from Denmark in Western Australia. But that’s not all, he is originally from Williamstown where we live, bloody small world. His partner Jen, (hope that’s right Jen), is from WA and lived around where I was brought up so we chat for hours on this and enjoy an amazing coincidence in the middle of Burgundy France.
Next morning we walk around the old town Beine and its very old church from the 13th Century, very quiet and secluded here.
From here we head across minor roads through typical French farmland, then forest, then corn fields, then an old village before we arrive at Pontigny. The Aire doesn’t excite us but we do go and check out the famous abbey where a famous Arch Bishop of Canterbury is buried from around 1300 or so. Saint Edward I think. The thing is that the French here are on the UK side because of him and actually fought against the French back in Gods know when, maybe the same time 1300 or 1400, no argument here. Anyway a little history there for you, google it if you want to know more.
We head from here across to Gurgy and a lovely stop on the river Yonne at Gurgy. Maybe 10 vans here but its open and we face the river so an easy afternoon. We chat to an older guy, Ray. Originally from South Africa, been in Ireland for 19 years after escaping from his farm there and now travelling on his own after his wife passed 3 years ago. We hear some lovely stories from him and he joins us again after dinner for more stories of travel and family. Lovely man and we wish him the best, although he seems to travel more than us, with a son in South Africa, Daughter in Western Australia, sister in South Australia and friends in NZ , apparently he spends about 30 days a year in Ireland.
Camp spot at Gurgy across the Yonne
After a bike ride next morning we head off and again travel along the very minor roads, stopping at a market we spy, but its not much good and we move on. It’s a holiday here, Assumption Day, so most places are shut and the villages are very quiet as we drive through.
We camp at a lovely spot on the river, within a farm and its popular as we have about 20 vans spread out around the paddocks. We park up under the shade and the hammock is out as we chill for the afternoon.
Next morning we decide to head into Sezanne, a village with so much history I wont try and even copy google information here, but the architecture of timber and lath and plaster houses are amazing and really occupy quite a large area rather than a few streets. Again amazing churches and the are renowned here for their stained glass. Been to so many churches I think I need a monks robe.
Sezanne
I have a stop in mind here and we leave Sezanne and head to a lovely Champagne area at Beaunay and camp at Champagne Michael Jacquesson with a couple of other vans. Our views are across the vineyards of champagne and we chill out taking in the stillness and quiet.
Camp spot at Champagne Michael JacquessonOh Champagne, say no more
Our travel has really slowed and we are loving the pace of it, slow travel its just the best.
We did think there was a tasting here at 6.30pm so we head over and basically knock on his back door. I don’t think we quite got it right when he said “what do you want”.
To be honest its not his fault and translating from French to English makes it seem harsh. No tasting, but we buy a cold bottle of his champagne and take it back and drink it. Lovely.
The morning is stunning with a cloudless sky across miles of vineyards, we slowly get our stuff together and leave about 11am.
We have decided to do lunch. Its not often we do but with a little research we find a pace in Ay, a famous Champagne area.
Its about 30km away and we drive there to find its closed. Ok next plan is to head to Mancy and a restaurant we have been before. Its about 10km away, closed as well, even though there are open signs along the road heading there.
So now we go from a nice restaurant meal to a bacon and egg roll cooked in the nearest Lidl carpark, oh it was nice but no champagne here.
We are a bit flat now, but we buck up and head to a canal park we have used before at Mareuil-sur-Ay. Lovely spot, shame about the neighbours, say no more my son.
Ok we are still heading west towards France and have a few places in mind to stop and camp. The first is Ok but doesnt entice us to stay so we drive onto the next. After heading down a dirt road and coming across very narrow bridge that we woudnt be able to cross, the road is too narrow to do u-turn so I manage to reverse about 1km and eventaully turn around. All those truck driving experiences I had as a young man in the north of WA (Western Australia) has paid off.
We head to another stop at Susa, and join another 10 or so vans parked up. Seems to be a bike ride or similar on, as the carparks are full with people everywhere. Probably lucky to snag a spot as it fills up fast and many vans come in looking for a spot. We just chill for the rest of the afternoon and evening.
Susa is probably not a place you would initially think to visit, it has a train station and the main road runs past the old area. So next morning we take a walk, initial thoughts are it will be a short walk but we continue up through the old town and discover the old Roman Ruins and parts of the old walls and castle. Incredible really and we walk around basically on our own with the town and mountains below us. A great Sunday morning walk, the pictures will tell the story.
Roman ruins at SusaView over Susa
We leave and do a Lidl shop then head off towards France, the border crossing is a wave through so glad of that and was really expecting a lengthy delay. Our camp spot is meters past the crossing and we pull in and join maybe 150 vans. It’s a major stop for skiing and summer sports, being the weekend it has a bike event on so its probably fuller than normal. We are surrounded by Ski lifts and mountains, its such a lovely spot. We check out the ski town but obviously it’s their low season so not a lot happening. Much cooler up here though and a welcome relief from the humidity we have had. By evening a lot of people have left, its Sunday and they would have been here for the weekend and games that where on.
Camp spot in the AlpsSki village in summer
This morning we are heading towards Annecy but expect to take some time and its not motorway travel, I will eat my words just you wait.
We travel about 60km today and it took us about 3 hours with a few photo stops, brake stops and stress stops along the way. Certainly a magnificent drive, then at Briancon we turn off for a hair raising drive up winding very narrow roads that are full of bike riders who are on a mission to reach the summit. It seems this bike riders nirvana, its called Col du Galibier Pass and we are in awe of the stamina of these men and women climbing these mountainous roads. My heart rate was pumping and I was just driving, mind you the road edge had something to do with that, Im not sure Vic has her eyes open.
3 hours not 1 hour 19minsNarrow winding road through the AlpsAmazing views
We make the peak, its full of the riders that have made it and not really a spot for us to stop so we slowly descend on a much better road thankfully, occasionally stopping to rest the brakes. At Valloire we pass a camping car park stop, these are all over France and cheap. I have had enough driving so we turn around and enter the parking area and join about 4 other campers. Its off season here now as it is a ski area with lifts just across the road. Wonder what it would be like to be in a motor home camped here in the winter? Cold obviously, but it’s a purpose made spot for winter campers so one day we will give it a go. The park next door has a display of statues made from hay, its quite effective.
Straw ArtStraw Art
Next morning we head off and follow the road through many ski resorts and wind our way again up and down the mountain towards Lake Bourget and another camping car park at Aix-les-Bains. Its crowded here but we manage to find a spot that we thought was shaded but the sun gets us in the afternoon. Its pretty hot, very still with no air and quite humid. We spend most of the afternoon down at the lake, watching the boats, rowers and wind surfers. It’s a nice spot and offers a lot for the water sport enthusiast. Our camp spot is hot, no air, so we fire up the aircon and cool it down. Money well spent at this time, and we enjoy a cool nights sleep.
Up early today as I want to visit Annecy, an old town on Lake Annecy. Its about a 1 hour drive and I had programmed in a park spot near the old town. We park quite easily for 2 Euro and head into the old town. Its lovely, bit touristy but with some quaint areas. By 11am its getting crowded with tourists plus its getting pretty hot and steamy so we decide to leave and are glad we got here early as people are nearly fighting for our park.
AnnecyAnnecyAnnecy
I have a France Passion park spot in mind and we head there and park up among Ostriches, Emus and a trout pond with some shade. It’s a lovely spot and we pay just 3 euro for some power (aircon on) and relax for the afternoon.
Doesnt look that happy
Next morning I have some issues with the internet, I have recharged my sim but it says I have no credit. We wait an hour or so as that’s what it says on the help section, still no credit and its now about 11am. Sound mundane but these are the issues you deal with travelling off road. Our decision is made, we will stay here another day but leave our outdoor stuff and head off to try and find a free wifi spot. We are basically in the middle of nowhere in France so best to try for a bigger village and quite often the town hall will have free wifi. First larger town our wifi is going crazy on free wifi, although its not free at all and all the instructions are in French. I try a flower shop but she cant really help and keeps talking to me in French, pointing to the butcher. Ok I spy a campsite sign and head there as they will normally have wifi for their customers. Success, I manage to get the password, don’t ask how it’s a trade secret. I buy another voucher on line and recharge another sim card with success and we return to our camp spot. The river is not far, and we are told of a track down to a small beach so we load up the bikes and spend a few hours down along the river.
It’s a slow start next morning and we head off towards Perouges a medieval town north off Lyon. Its not long before our drive is interrupted by a blocked road and we follow the initial detour sign before getting lost and basically doing a big circle back -around Lake Bourget and then across the hills towards Villefranche-sur-Saone.
Manage to find Perouges and a vacant car park not far from the village. Its bloody hot, we park in the shade and head up the track. We spend about an hour or so walking around a quaint village with cobblestone streets, riverstone built houses and little else really. I think our timing was pretty good as we approach the church only to have to wait for about 50 odd tourists on a cruise to make there exit and head into the village. We like this old church, its full of stone and is plain without the usual gold and ornate fixtures you often see.
Perouges a stone villageLovely old church
Ok by now we are steaming hot and make it back to the van and some cool air. From here we head to Villefranche-sur-Seone. As we approach we realize we stayed here last year and had picked up the French camping card that gives you this access to a cheap powered spot.
We need the power its bloody hot plus we paid for an aircon to be installed before we left the UK so best to use it. It’s a well-shaded spot here, but the air is hot and humid so our aircon is working overtime.
Next morning we decide to stay put, grab a baguette and fruit from the shop, make lunch and head across to the man made beach adjacent to our camp spot. Its 3 euro each and we park up under shady trees, well I do, and out comes the hammock and I’m all set for a restful day, Vic is as happy as Larry in the sun and water. We expect the families and kids, buts not too bad, the water is cool and the shower icy cold so not much chance of overheating here. We enjoy the day amongst the French and once the sun comes over too far we are off and back to the van. We move again, its that sort of camp spot, just find the shade and hook up again. I’m sure I’ve said it before, but the French know how to camp and you can find spots anywhere, either free or a small charge for power, they just love it.
The French Beaujolais wine area runs from here on a northerly line, so I figure we really need to give this a look and try some wine. Now Beaujolais in Australia is generally a light perhaps innocuous wine, no offence to Beaujolais drinkers but the French stuff is a different kettle of fish. We drive to a few spots on the French Passion site, but the first few don’t attract us. The drive is along minor roads through huge vineyards, where we note the vines are close clipped and quite short compared to most. Not sure why but hopefully we may find out.
We eventually park up at Domaine de Grande Terriere, where they have spots for motor homes. No one is around but a sign says they are out in the vines and will be back at 6pm for a wine degustation. Perfect, its too bloody hot anyway, so we hook up to their power and wack the aircon on, oh and we park up under a great tree for some shade, hoping that’s ok?
Camped in the shadeSunset across Beaujolais
Later we are joined by a van from Belgium, and we meet them in the cellar for a wine tasting. Luckily they spoke some English as the owner did not. It was nice, we bought some wine and later met another van with people from Iran. Well actually the younger couple live in Denmark and it was his mum and dad visiting from Iran. Would love to have a good chat with them but didn’t quite work out.
Just lovely
A real family run vineyard here, and the noises started early which upset our lazy arse sleep ins, but it’s a farm and farmers start early so we do as well.
We head off slowly just following the road north, meandering through French countryside, when we pass a lovely town and spy a market. It takes a few turns before we find a car park and enter Pont-de-Veyle, a cute little village with a canal running through it. The market is just like most small town markets and really the best to visit and buy something from the locals. We end up with some quiches, baguette, roast chicken, fruit and veges so lunch is looking good. I just love driving through the back roads of France, they are narrow, but not a lot of traffic and the towns are wonderful. For example at the last town where we went to the market just a few metres behind a rusty wrought iron fence stood a typical French townhouse, or what I would call a mini Chateau, stunning, in need of TLC but you see these everywhere.
We take our goodies and head to our camp spot at Mantenay-Montlin, a lovely spot amongst the trees and next to a river. Its very quiet, only 2 other vans here, we park up in the shade and enjoy our lunch.
Man its still really humid and the heat seems to penetrate the shade, I hang the hammock and hope for some breeze. It doesn’t happen and I’m eventually forced back to some aircon relief, I know I’m soft. No BBQ tonight, it’s a cold chicken and salad evening with a cold drink or 2.
It looks like the heat will remain for another couple of days, touching 37 degrees. We manage to have attracted some small ankle biters near us and the screaming confirms our decision to up and leave. Would have preferred to stay in the shade but not to be so we head off towards another camp spot. There is no so shade here so we move on again and eventually drive up near Beaune at Seurre. Plenty of shade here and we camp up and wait out the heat. It was a pleasant drive through the minor roads, passed through a number of very nice villages, all dressed up in flower boxes and restored buildings.
Shady camp spot all on our ownCanal boats
Its much cooler this morning so we unleash the bikes and check out our surrounds. The river Saone runs through here and we spot a number of large barges that have been converted to floating homes. It’s a popular river for cruising and runs down through France before joining the Rhone, we put that on our wish list, a 2 week cruise down the river, not knowing what we discover in a few days.
Our general direction of travel is towards the the Italian lakes and we plot a course along the river. We manage about 10km before the road is blocked with a fire truck and we have to do a very tight u turn against the cliff and make our way back to Gemona Del Fruili and then onto the motorway. May have been an accident or rock fall we are not sure. So a pretty boring drive for a couple of hours before we leave the motorway and head to a farm stop near Bassano del Grappa. Lovely spot, quiet and secluded. Best part is they give us some information regarding the area and Bassano del Grappa looks very interesting so we decide to head there in the morning.
We leave early and park up near the town quite easily, it’s a Sunday so we where prepared for a crowd but being early is the best option. This is a real find, a stunning old town with its own Ponte Vecchio bridge across the river and 3 stunning connected piazzas. Obviously the del Grappa in the towns name is a giveaway and the original distillery is here and open to the public, so we had a quick view of the museum and a tasting of grappa at the end. We walk through the town and view the Italians pouring in for café and morning aperitif before lunch. There is also a bike race in the upper level main street and we catch them fly past as well, its all happening as they say. So we join in and its café and brioche for us as well as we absorb the lively Italian atmosphere. We agree that it seems free of the usual tourist mobs and shops and would be a great place for a stop in a hotel or AirBnB for a couple of days. We grab a take away lunch of pizza squares from a typical local artisan pizza shop, which we wolf down sitting by the river.
Basanno del Grappa bridge
He gets around old Napoleone
We head back to the van and have a vineyard in mind for a stop over tonight. Its again on our way across Italy and we eventually find it after numerous drives up and down a narrow winding road, the GPS coordinates are out so we kept being given the wrong info. We park up at the front of Le Colline Winery and meet the owners sons. There is a party about to start so we sit ourselves in the van and watch proceedings. At first I thought it was a birthday party but turns out it’s a graduation party for a girl who has graduated in journalism. Of course we find all this out as we are invited over for desserts and to watch the unfolding celebration. We chat to Maria, the celebrated one as she speaks very good English and like most are astounded at our voyage. It’s a very funny and typical Northern Italian custom for graduates and is maybe a bit too complicated to explain in detail here. Anyway a great experience for us and we had a lot of fun. After that we tried their wines, which we liked so bought a half a dozen for the stash. Later that evening the Papa came out, we hadn’t seen him at all but he explained a huge storm was coming and directed us to park under the verandah area for protection. It came all right and the sounds of thunder and lightening where massive leaving us thankful to be under cover.
Maria the graduate, costume part of the initation
Next morning we make our way to Lake Iseo and are really stunned by the views as we drive in. I had a stop marked near Sulzano which is across from Monte Isola but it looked too narrow and probably only suitable for a small vehicle. We drive on and stop at Pisogne on the North East of the lake. Its basically a carpark but the views are amazing so we stay and enjoy the views and in the afternoon the young boys continuously jumping from the marina into the water, cause that’s what boys do. We endure a steamy and warm night, eventually heading out of the van about 1am to cool off in the outside air.
Lake Iseo
Next morning we head off further round the lake to Volpino and a Italian Sosta camp spot. First impressions are negative and we pay 4euro just to use the dump facilities and take on water. I do notice the ticket shows parking till 1.30pm and after a look around I see they have a grassed area next door so we park up there and I head off for a look around while Vic washes the smalls. Following the path I come across a shaded park area next to the canoe club that looks very promising and views out across the lake, plus no one there. A quick ride around the road shows a lovely town with many cafes, boardwalks and seems lively. Time to report back those first impressions where wrong and it’s a good spot. We load up with picnic lunch, chairs and books and head off down the path for about 200m to plonk ourselves right on the water and views to die for. After an hour or so I reckon I should get the hammock and have spied a great spot to hang it, so quick trip back to the van and I am set for a few hours. Such a lovely breeze blowing through here that we fall into the trap that its everywhere, so we pack up after a few hours and head back to the van. So no breeze and its very humid and hot back here, we do move to a more shaded position and that’s better.
View from the hammock under the trees
Next morning we decide to stay and head off on a long walk around the area before repeating yesterday and back to the park and hammock. No mistake today and we stay longer enjoying the cool breeze.
We decide to eat out tonight and ride our bikes around the water to a restaurant that looks nice and popular. The meal is good, well just Ok as mine is a bit ordinary, but Vics is good. Not sure what it was but I was throwing my heart up at 1am and I am never sick so can only make a wild guess it was the food. Thankfully next morning Im all good and we head off, but not before shopping at the local Italian supermarket and enjoying that experience with their quality delicatessen foods and pastas.
Must say we really enjoyed Lake Iseo, it’s a top spot and well worth the trip here.
Our destination today is,” close you’re your eyes and pick a spot on the map”, well not quite but nearly. We are really just meandering across Italy to France and could go many ways. The humidity and extra warm nights really are determining that we have to have power to run the air conditioner we had installed so that narrows down our choices. I did want to see Lake Orta, but we thought maybe another time. I spy a spot in the mountains that isn’t far from Lake Orta but not much else so we head there and camp up in a council made spot for campers, just perfect, except for the mosquitoes. I’m still scratching. Its at Di Almeno and the local bee keeper comes to collect the 10 euro for staying here. The local church is amazing, from 1505 and still has all hand made doors and stonework. It’s a quiet night apart from the rain and we camp alone. The bee keeper man was great, he was French but spoke very good English, gave us some maps and pointed out places to see. One was a walk up to the monastery, which we tried but where driven back by the mosquitos.
Nice camp spot on our ownSo so old
So bugger that we head down to Lake Orta via an extremely narrow road, pass a number of amazing properties, villas and the views are quite incredible even as you are driving with eyes on the next corner. We pass the turnoff for Orta and head around to a sosta near Omegna on the north part of the lake. Payment on this sosta is by every 12 hours so we park a bit further round at a free carpark to decide what to do. Its only early, about 11am so we unleash the bikes and ride into Omegna along the waterfront.
First view of Lake Orta, stunned
Its difficult to keep coming up with superlatives, but unless you can do this take my word for it, it’s a place you go and just say I just want to stay here. They are setting up a food market along the water for the evening and we mange to get in early for a feed which we enjoy on the waterfront. One market is selling ‘Aussie Hamburgers” with Kangaroo meat, hmm, not sure about that.
We head back to the van and I had spied a little parkland near the water so we grab chairs and bike down the 100m or so to enjoy a peaceful afternoon. Ok so Italians always arrive after 2pm, they have had lunch, maybe a siesta and now are ready to play. Its not to bad and by now I have been back and have the hammock all set so the afternoon goes by amongst the trees and kids playing in the water. Another idyllic Italian scenario played out.
Perfect spot on a hot dayIdeal hammock territory
So our predicament now is the camp spot that charges by 12 hours and we don’t want to pay any more, its very hot in the van, about 5.30pm (G&T time). We find a shaded spot about 200m down the road and park up there as we down a cold one and await the time to enter the site. 7pm means we have to leave by 7am, that’s fine, Vic can stay in bed and its 50m to drive to where we parked all day today. All done, we park up and have dinner with the aircon on full blast.
Its 6.30am and I pack up and pay our 12hour fee and drive 50m where we shower and have coffee before heading to Orta. We figured that it was best to get there early, its hard to park, and the free park is at the top of the hill. We park up there and walk down to the town. Ok Im sure you are getting pretty sick of me now, but this spot must be on your list. It is quintessentially Italian, plus has a Venetian feel as you walk the streets. The streets are immaculate cobbled stone with glimpses of water at every turn, we are lucky we are early, there aren’t many people about and that helps to enjoy the place. Maybe an apartment here Vic? I say, and she just laughs at my romanticism, is that a word? Just wish we had a kayak. And a bottle of Prosecco, ha
Oh for a little boat…..Island of peace
There is an Island calling us, about 300m away in the lake. We take an early ferry ride at 4.50 euro each return, ouch. Its called Isola San Giulio. We alight and walk around through a cobblestone street; there are no cars or bikes. Periodically there are small signs hanging from the walls encouraging silence, surprisingly we end up back where we started within 30 minutes and cant find anywhere else to go so we get the next ferry back as a number of people start to arrive. Our timing seems to have just been right here.
We make our way back to the van, all up hill and its pretty steamy now so we arrive back in a bundle of sweat. No hanging around, the engine is on and the aircon set high as we plan our next move.
Being a traveller as I think we are brings unexpected pleasures that are not planned but emerge as you move on. And I think that is why we always move on, because there are times you just want to stay but are inevitably drawn towards the light of future finds like a moth to the flame. Bloody deep that but sums up why we keep moving.
Next morning we are pretty slow, hung over is more like it and we eventually leave our lovely private camp spot and follow directions from Kruno rather than the GPS. The drive is very nice, some really lovely properties with outstanding views along quiet narrow roads and even an abandoned church that cries out to us for renovations, I quickly drive past, back aching in response.
Perfect reno opportunity
Croatia is well known for the coast but these areas are amazing even though we have only seen a small part, it just grabs you and makes you take notice.
Now without Kruno’s tips we would not have headed here to Cigoc. This is Stork country and the buggers are all camped on the local rooftops, free of charge as well.
Stork village
Its really amazing, they actually migrate from South Africa, how far is that? Incredible really, and this town is so old, some of the houses are nearly toppling over but they still live in them.
Just one of the many old timber homes
We do a bike ride following the old roads and dikes before returning through the old town from the opposite way. Our camp spot is gorgeous and next to an old building with rooms and a restaurant. We have dinner there and its about $20 for our meal and wine, cant go wrong really.
On our ride yesterday we spoke to a guide for this whole area and he recommended further down at Krapje, so after a bit of a toss up we decide to head there this morning. The roads are terrible, we end up on a single lane on top of a dyke, then bump and rattle our way down the Krapje which is really a stop off to do forest walks into the national park. According to the guide they have a wild pig that not only swims but dives to the bottom as well. Of course we know pigs cant fly but never knew they could scuba dive!! Vics not that keen on wild animals so we don’t venture into the forest on foot but do a u-turn and look for a highway, these roads are giving us the pip.
It’s a fair drive to our destination Slunj and a dedicated campervan park spot and we arrive about 4pm, no one around until a guy pops up and sorts us out for payment and access to showers etc. Our view is over the valley around Slunj and you can hear the waterfalls of Radstoke that we will visit tomorrow. No one joins us and we have the place to ourselves for the night.
Next morning we basically roll down the hill about 750m and park before walking into Radstoke. It’s a very small town built around the water falls and river here, we have a really pleasant walk around with not very many people at this early time so that’s a bonus.
Falls at Radstock
A couple of hours and we are done and so head off towards the renowned Plitvice National Park but stop and camp at Bears camping which does a shuttle to the entrance and we will do this tomorrow. It’s a busy stop here and we are joined by all sorts of campers, tents and sleep in your car types.
Next morning we are off at 8.30am in the shuttle at 30 Kuna each for the 10-minute ride each way.
After a short queue we are in and descending to the lakes and waterfalls, at this point its worth noting that the number of people is moderate so we can walk and enjoy the falls and lakes. The falls and views are spectacular and we walk for many miles, getting lost a few times then about 12pm encountering the masses that come here, by then we are a bit over the amount of people but its another couple of hours before we exit and grab our ride back. Really glad we came here, great place shame about the crowds but you get that at a Unesco site.
Plitvice fallsEco walk around the fallsMore falls
Next morning we are off early and head off past the falls and on towards the coast of Croatia. I have spied a camper stop on the coast at Senj and we descend the mountains and make our way there, hoping its not full?
We arrive at Senj and head towards the camp spot which is in an obscure spot and we actually have to reverse out onto the roundabout as it seems one way and a van is coming out. A bit of reversing, another go round the roundabout and we head in and park right on the waterfront. My co driver is well impressed with this little position and chairs are out within minutes to soak up the sun. Its quite busy here but not over the top, some families with their kids, older people walking along the promenade and just general sun seekers.
Senj campingSenj sunset
Next morning I head to Senj castle, its nice and has been well restored with a lot of displays and information on the battles and wars that have happened here. There are great views for the top along the coast. Further along from the castle I find a small church on the edge of the coast surrounded by trees. The views again are across the water and below are a number of swim spots. The town of Senj is small but has a number of twisting cobbled streets with restaurants and bars plus quite a number of abandoned buildings in need of restoration.
Senj Castle
The rest of the day is spent relaxing and enjoying the sunshine.
It’s a couple of days till we meet up with Liam, so we head towards Pula and stop at small backyard campstop just below the ancient town of Labin. Nice little stop here, the facilities are immaculate and include a small pool, plus vegetable garden that I manage to prune quite well.
Next morning we decide to head up to the town of Labin and we walk the 3km up the ascending hill which by the time we arrive we are both drenched in sweat its so humid. Lovely old town with cobbled streets and square where we share a pizza and a beer, well Vic has the beer and I have water. We decide to walk back through the small farmyard streets and manage to get lost before referring to the sat nav on the phone and making it back in one piece, although again a sweat soaked piece.
Labin
We are meeting Liam and Indy this morning and have pre-arranged a pick up spot in Pula as the parking is notoriously bad. We meet at 10am and park up a few meters along in a shopping centre car park to chat and give them some breakfast. We then head off to Ravinja and park up about 1km from the centre and walk in. Having been here before we know it’s a picturesque place and although busy it’s a nice place to stroll around and admire the views and architecture. Lunch is outside on the marina and further along Gelati is also consumed so all in all its very European today. By the time we drop them back its late in the afternoon and with sad goodbyes we head off to our campspot, not far about 35km and again in a small backyard vineyard. We sample and buy some of the wines. Nice quiet spot here.
We are off to Slovenia and cross the border without too much hassle before stopping at the Military History Museum in Plivka. A dedicated motorhome stop is included here in the upper carpark and for 10 euro it included one ticket to the museum. Well we only need one as you know, so off I went and enjoyed as couple of hours viewing tanks and planes, plus a submarine and history of Slovenia. Great spot and cant quite work out why we where the only ones there?
War museum
Today we head to Ljubljana and stop at the park and ride in another dedicated camper stop. The bus drops us in the center and we spend a few hours walking around including up to the castle. Unfortunately the castle is disappointing and very commercialized and compared to some it’s really not worth the walk up. The town is lovely though, very busy, hundreds of bars and restaurants and Im sure would be incredible at night. We do manage to have a very nice feed of fish and chips that we buy and sit along the river side to eat. Cant remember the place, more a hole in the wall type, but these are as good as we have had and we don’t eat fish and chips!
Ljubljana
We leave Ljubljana and head towards Logarska Dolina, a national park in the mountains. Somehow our GPS takes us the long way and we end up crossing into Austria the back into Slovenia via a maddening number of hairpin turns, micro roads and stunning scenery. I really cant believe some of the roads I have driven this van on, at times I think we must be mad. Eventually we make it to the valley and forest of Logarska Dolina and park up. We then head off on foot for about 3 hours up the mountain in search of a waterfall that we never find, oh well doesn’t matter it was a nice walk although the wildlife where hiding.
Forest trail
Lovely Logarska Dolina
We camp at a farm not far away, wonderful spot, with Shetland ponies, goats and the rest joining us. Very peaceful night, even the chooks slept in.
Farm stop for the night
So next day I decide Im not heading on that mountain road again and we head back south and towards Lake Bled. Stupid man, this road is worse for about 20km, we nearly get wiped out by a massive tractor plus its so steep the fuel gauge is screaming low on fuel. Never so glad to reach the top and stop to let the heart rate slow and clam down.
Parking at Lake Bled is a nightmare, the traffic is banked back and we eventually manage to park up in a stop not far from the lake. We do get a bonus as a nice guy gives us his ticket valid till 10am tomorrow. I unhook the bikes and we make our way to the lake and meet the huge number of people here. The bikes help us to lose some of them as we ride around the lake on the pathway. Its obviously a beautiful site but a couple of hours and we are done and head back to the van where we spend an eventful night. We are with about 20 other vans so it’s a normal stop but next to a supermarket and its loading bay. Its 3am and the trucks start to arrive and unload, then at 6am the ride on mower starts up, then the whipper snipper followed by the leaf blower start up. Then 7 am a truck arrives to tip some fill for all the pot holes followed by a front end loader to shift it around. Pretty well having a laugh by now, plus some people are still in bed, ha ha.
The classic Lake Bled shotLake Bled
We leave Lake Bled and head towards Kranjska Gora and another camper spot. Big ski area here, but for the summer there are dedicated bike tracks and it’s a popular spot. We do unleash the bikes and check out the local lakes and tracks, all very nice and the town of Kranjska Gora is very picturesque. Shame the food wasn’t though, we went for dinner and had to send it back it was cold and rubbish and we ended up with a kebab which was very good considering.
If you look closely you can see the ski jumper, just above the first markerThe lake near Kranjska Gora
We decide next morning to move on and we cross into Italy and head up to a camp spot at lake Fusine. A really stunning spot, we manage to get a spot on the edge of the park and spend the day just reading and watching the people come and go. In the evening there are about 20 vans parked up. Next morning I get up early and grab some photos of the mountains with the sun rising, just stunning.
Lake FusineCamp stop at Lake FusineAwesome mountains behind Lake Fusine
We would love to stay but the screaming baby at 1am plus again at 7.00am next to us in the German van really makes are decision as it looks like they wont leave.
Our internet access here is bad so we are not even sure where we are heading, so make our way down the mountain and along the road before it kicks in. I had Gemona Del Friuli highlighted on my Google maps so we make our way there and a camper park. Its warm and the humidity is very high as we park and walk up into the old town. The town was destroyed in the 70’s with a terrible earthquake has been rebuilt. It’s a quick walk around, sweat is running down our bodies as we make our way back and decide not to stay here and now where to go. Lake Cavazzo is on my list so we head there its not far and a possible cheap (?) campsite with washing facilities. It’s a small campsite right on the lake and we camp up, set up the awning, chairs out and try to catch some air its so humid. Vic has the washing machine going flat out and we string up a line for the sheets. 30 minutes later the heavens open up and it pours, I just manage to get everything stored away again and the inside of a the van is like a Chinese laundry. The rain does not stop and we spend the rest of the day and night inside the van. The morning is just a little better but looks very dodgy, we manage to get down to the lake and have a look, it’s a very nice quiet spot and had the weather been good we would have stayed a couple of days, alas no and we are off again.
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