15th July 2019

We leave our little lakeside camp, head back up the rutted road and towards the Wolfs Lair. On route we stop at Mikolajki a colourful town on the river, although a quick bike around was enough, its a bite to eat and off again. 

We figure the Wolfs Lair will be busy so plan to get there first thing tomorrow and there is a nice little parking spot only a couple of km’s from there so we head there. Its raining now the temperature has dropped so we settle in for the afternoon. We spend a quiet night without any bother and arrive at Hitlers main wartime headquarters next morning right on opening time. Of course the Russians bombed the crap out of it so many of the bunkers are in ruins but the overall picture of the place is worth the visit to get the feel and tie in another piece of WW2 history. Its popular and by the time we leave the buses and cars are pouring into the carpark. 

Wolfs Lair

Wolfs Lair

Hitlers bunker

Hitlers bunker

 We are heading north now towards Gdansk and stop near Pieniezo, another small camp spot in a backyard, which is really the size of a paddock. Lovely older gent cant do enough for us and we park up all alone in his immaculate yard. Its still pretty cool with a strong breeze and we settle down for another quiet night amongst the whistling trees. 

Camp spot

After we leave our camp spot we head to Katy on Elbag canal and view a completely different way to transport boats rather than the traditional locks. Its a inclined plane of railway track with a carriage that transports the boats up and down with hydraulic power, quiet amazing to watch and the fact that it operates exactly as it was built in 1860 is amazing. Its a quiet spot as well so we park up in the carpark and stay the night.

Elbag canal

Elbag canal

Elbag canal

Elbag canal

 Its an early start this morning, we leave at 8am and our destination is Malbork Castle, it opens at 9am and we have an hours journey so hopefully it works out. Well sometimes it does, our cheap parking spot care of PFN is right next door and 3 Zloty about 75 Euro cents gets me 3 hours. We just made it back, 3 hours was pushing it in the end, what a place, completely restored after WW2 bombing, an amazing job and just knocked me over. The armaments section was one of the best layouts i have seen, in fact the whole castle was superbly done, such a credit to all that had a hand in it. So its a 14C Teutonic castle and the worlds largest brick castle. We also had a an audio guide, usually not what I would go for but in this case it was so well done that it would have been a shame without it.

Malbork castle

 

Spooky huh?

Restored Malbork castle

Armoury Malbork castle

Malbork castle

 We head off from Malbork castle and towards Gdansk, stopping about half way there at an abandoned marina. Its on the river Vistula, a wide river that seems to be boat free. Not one boat, canoe, kayak, ferry or barge went past the whole time we where there, its just weird, no wonder the marina is abandoned. Quite a few fisherman turn up and leave at all times day and night and we have another 2 vans parked along the concrete, overall it was an easy stop.

A lonely river camp spot

 Its not far from here to Gdansk and we arrive there about 9.30am, park next to a small marina and its a 10 minute walk to the old town. Once again its a rebuilt town after the heavy bombing of WW2 and its impressive. Gdansk is also the centre of the amber trade and of course those shops are everywhere. The old town has a nice feel, ok there are plenty of tourists, numbers rising by the minute , but you don’t get that false feeling. Ok maybe apart from the little river boats that look like cars, not a good look. We enjoyed the town though and later that day I make my way to the WW2 museum about a 5 minute walk and half hour wait for the pedestrian bridge to lower, you have to time your crossings thats for sure. Again the Polish have outdone themselves, this is a brilliant museum detaining the path of Poland through the war and its a good 2 hours plus before i realise its 5pm already, really enjoyed it, great information and stories. A week ago we didn’t think Poland was going to do it for us but the last week has been amazing and turned our opinion around. Before we came here we figured it would be a bit like Romania, Bulgaria maybe, but its a totally different country, seems to be so modern, fast moving and prosperous. To think it was annihilated in WW2, then ruled by the Russians and communists until Lech Walesa led the uprising back in 1989, I think many countries could take a leaf out of their book, cause it is steaming along.

Gdansk

Gdansk

Gdansk

Gdansk

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continue reading “15th July 2019”

July 4th 2019

Its Thursday the 4th of July and we leave Austria and cross into Slovakia, a new country for us. Not much really changes, there is no border control and we wind our way through countryside with small villages that all look a bit dull and forgotten maybe. We had intended on maybe visiting Bratislava but the whole city thing, huge apartment blocks etc put us off and we somehow ended up on a motorway for a couple of hours. Anyway once we left the motorway and hit those country roads we arrived at an airport. Ok its a small airport and has a small camping area which we pull into. Its busy and after a look around we realize its a glider airport. There are close to 60 glider trailers and we watch them being pulled up into the air one after the other. Also seems like its a public holiday as well so I imagine they are making a long weekend of it. No one seems to mind us being there and we don’t get approached for any money so we settle in and watch the gliders.

Gliders all lined up

 Our drive today takes us today through the centre of Slovakia, its heavily wooded and we pass national forests on route. The towns are very dull and bland, there isn’t much to make us stop. But we do find a lovely camp spot just past Brezno, its a rural campsite on some farmland run by a Dutch couple for 13 years. Chooks run free and we enjoy a nice night there. Next day we make our way up to Dedinky and a large inland lake, the weather is perfect and we even unleash the bikes, although later I do manage to come a cropper mountain biking in the woods and my bike is looking a bit sad plus Im missing some skin now. It is a beautiful spot and we park above the lake with fabulous views, and spend a quiet night.

Dedinky lake

What a view

We leave lovely Dedinka and wind our way through National forest and arrive at Spis Castle, a ruined castle from the 12th Century. Lucky for us they let motorhomes park at the base of the castle rather than 2km down the road with an uphill walk. Another bonus as we head to the ticket office, its free on Sundays. Of course the downside is more people, but we manage to get a good walk around and leave before it gets too busy.  

Remains of Spis castle

We leave Spis castle and the Tatra mountains start to come in to view and we arrive at Tatranska Lomnica and the ski lift car park. Magic view from the windows of the Tatra mountains. There is a ski lift to the top but its booked out for 2 days and it appears to be in the clouds half the time so we settle for a ground view instead. Funny as we are soon joined by a Czech motor home from our park last night at Dedinky lake and by morning there are about half a dozen parked overnight. 

Tatras mountains in view

Tatranská Lomnica ski lift

 Poland calls and we cross the border from Slovakia without stopping, we are in the heavily wooded mountains, bike and walking trails everywhere. We arrive in Bukovina among huge alpine style homes and hotels, our stop for the night is at a massive water park, simple the biggest Ive ever seen with a number of indoor and outdoor pools some therapeutic others just for fun. By evening its just us and an empty carpark, perfect for a quiet evening.

Next morning we make our way to Krakow, but first we head the 10km towards the popular town of Zakopane, which is the main town of the Tatra mountains. Well after doing about 1 km in 20 minutes and no sign of improvement we take the hint and turn around leaving the traffic and obvious crowds behind. The drive is about 100km or so and we pass many large advertising signs for all sorts of nip and tuck, teeth whitening, whatever you want this must be the area, funnily enough we never saw them again once we reached Krakow. Our stop tonight is in a motor home dealers yard, its cheap and convenient. As its early we decide to head into Krakow, options are bus, ride the 6km (probably should have done that) or a quick check on Uber and it about $5 to get an Uber ride. 10 minutes later we are picked up and deposited at the castle entrance. Its not that we don’t like cities, some we love but many don’t really grab us, Krakow is lovely but very touristy, actually its what I would call gaudy. Just so much tourist junk, not authentic, its a shame as the centre is very nice, the castle is not my favourite either so we look and leave a bit disappointed. I must mention we did consider going to Austwitz but didnt want the whole tour bit, trouble is now its so popular that you need to book a time just to walk in and that is usually booked out a month or more in advance, seems to have become a must do on the tourist calender, anyway we cant wait a month so we decide maybe another time .

Krakow church

Central Krakow

Lovely horses, but so many

Original fort entrance

We leave Krakow next morning and make our way to Sandomierz, a recommended place to visit. Its late by the time we reach there so we search for a place to stop and return in the morning. Wineries are very rare in Poland, its an emerging business as they are beer and vodka people, but this is changing a bit. We stop at Sandomirius winery and enjoy a tour of the vineyard and production before a wine tasting. A large bus load of Polish people arrive on a tour and are set up with food and drinks before starting up the squeezebox and some dancing, we watch all of this from the van window having a good old laugh. The wine is not bad and we buy a few bottles. Next morning we head back to the town and find a free parking spot and head up into the town. The cathedral is under renovation and you can still see inside amongst the scaffold. Its a major renovation, ceilings are being repainted and its very detailed. I would imagine when it is finished it will be incredible. There are photos of the Pope on some display panels so I suppose thats got something to do with it? But for fear of repeating myself, its an overly touristy place, gaudy as they say and we are disappointed.

Sandomierz square

All the tour cars lined up

 Well so far Poland is not what we had expected but we have a fair way to go yet so we will reserve judgement till we have been to the top. Tonight we find ourselves on a marina at Pulaway, we have some power and fascilities so its a comfortable stop, and quiet too. Next morning we are off and head towards Kazimierz Dolny a popular village with old world charm I think. Parking is an issue once we get there, they want too much and by this stage we are a bit over it so decide a rest day is in order, its only about 10.30am but we make our way to a park up next to the Vistula river and the spot of a flat decked car ferry operation. Not many bridges in these areas so there are a few of these along the river. We just read and nap for the day, watching the ferry go back and forward, the odd fisherman comes and goes and we decide to stay here for the night. Next morning we attempt to visit Kazimierz again and find another car park where we can pay per hour, we turn in and are promptly told no motorhomes here, ok we get the hint , seeya Kazimierz. We head north again and eventually make it to the Treblinka concentration camp about 5pm. You can stay the night in the carpark here, so we join an Austrian van and settle in. 

Vistula river. Botchotnica

Its horrifying what happened here and how they tried to cover it up, hard to comprehend how the Nazis murdered 800,000 people in 13 months through a system set up to maximize the number murdered each day. There are very few people here in the morning and we walked areas which occupied the massive burial pits and also the museum. 

Treblinka

Treblinka

Tonight stop is a back yard of a Polish family that have set it up for campers, bit of initiative and its a cheap option for some power and the almighty hair dryer. Lovely man, didnt speak a word of English but his son did so we settle in and are the only ones there for the night. Must mention the Polish roads, once you get off the main road they are either a remaining Roman rd from 200AD or a badly corrugated dirt rd, we have been on some dreadful rattlers and at times cant get over 10 kph. Today for example we drive to a lakeside stop and its down a mud track, pot holes everywhere, about 5kph for a kilometer. Lovely spot though and very quiet after the few swimmers leave. We have a Czech guy in a Mercedes 4WD and camper attachment join us and I share some stories with him as well as check out his ride, jealous but I dont think I will get Vic in one of these.

What a view Lake Sniardwy

Nice off road camper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

30th June 2109

Hallstatt Austria

 

Its Sunday the 30th June and we drive from Flachauwinkl to the town of Hallsatt, about 70km through Alpine forests and small villages, the streets lined with flower covered timber houses, window boxes on every available spot. The entry to Hallstatt is through a long tunnel before you reach the town. Now its very popular, right on the tourist radar so the buses are pouring in, parking is a premium but i have a spot from Park for Night and we find a spot off the main roads and seems secure. We unleash the bikes and pedal into the village centre. Its picture postcard stuff and we join the masses clicking away. I just don’t understand why these groups from other countries have to be so loud and yell at each other non stop. There is a funny spot where everyone attempts to get a selfie, as they do these days.  Big signs saying quiet please, silence in this area, but no they continue the yelling without a concern for anyone else, just ignorant. Unfortunately this is what tourism is now and its only going to get worse, to be blunt its ugly. Best to head off track and disappear into the wild.

 

 

Anyway its a beautiful place and worth the visit to see, but by now its very hot and we escape back to the van and head off towards Bad Aussee.

On the road to Bad Aussee

Wonderful view

We don’t find much to accomodate us around Bad Aussee and end up driving to a camp site on Putterersee, the heat is still on and we take comfort in the aircon, cause we can.

Putterersee

Camping Putterersee

Next morning we off and make our through the Gesause National park, passing groups of white water rafters and across to Eisenerz and down to the lake there. Its your typical Alpine lake surrounded by vertical mountains and pine forests. Its a lovely walk around, mainly in the shade which is much cooler. We have a free motorhome stop back in the village where we camp for the night. It is very unusual in this pristine countryside to view an open-cut mine. Amazingly its an iron ore mine and seems to still be producing 2 million tonnes a year. 

White water rafters

Eisenerz iron ore mine

 We leave Eisenerz next morning and wind our way further towards Poland, thinking we will maybe visit Vienna. More winding Alpine roads and stunning scenery, little did we know how it can change. After about 3 hours we arrive in Dietlergraben, a small motorhome stop at an unused railway line. Great spot for bike riding and trekking in the hills. We are the only ones there and as its Monday everything is closed. A very peaceful spot. There is a club house that seems to be being renovated and workers turn up at all times, seems like volunteers. In front of this clubhouse are some purpose made courts for a game where they throw a weighted flat based ball on a sling, don’t know what its called but looked like fun. Maybe something they do in winter on ice, not sure?

Camp spot, old train station

 We leave this lovely spot next morning and wind our way through more alpine forests and mountains eventually reaching flat farmland. The scenery changes before our eyes from what we have been used to, its flat, pretty boring and the quality of housing is diminishing the further we drive. Its quite obvious this area must have been in communist hands at some stage as are not far from the Slovakia border. We stop at Jahrndorf where a farmer has made a camper stop, its a lovely spot and we meet the lady across the road who sells us some marmalade and eggs and also speaks English so we get a little chat, there have been very few of these this trip. By evening we have another 2 vans settle in. Now she did mention it was quiet except for the frogs, and these start up at night which is about 10pm here. They are a sound we have never heard before, they sounded a bit like howling cats, very strange. Also for reason the church rings its bells for a full minute at 4.45am, being sunrise, its an early start to the day.

 

21st June 2019

Our trip so far

We leave the ferry from Sardinia and head north from Civitavecchia port on Via Aurelia the SS1. Our plan now is to head up through Italy into Austria and then Slovakia and Poland. No hurry if course but its a fair way and more driving than we have done for a couple of months. We stop and camp at Montefiasone in a purpose made stop at a winery coop. Its free has all the facilities and a nice view so happy days. Next morning we head down to Bolsena lake to check out some parking but that doesn’t work out, further along the lake we stumble upon what seems to be a car rally but is in fact a race. The variety of vehicles seem to indicate a rally of some type but not sure. We have some old Abarth models flying past attempting to break the sound barrier. Im not sure but I thought I saw a Bugatti! We park ourselves next to the lake and chairs are out on the grass only to have Vicki attacked continuously by moths, really weird and in the end we had to pack up and leave back up to Montefiasone. What is amazing is manage to drive on the race track all the way with the marshal all wondering why we where on there? Luckily the race hadn’t started yet but I reckon I had the race record for a bit! 

Is that a Bugatti?

After all that excitement its back on the road next morning and we head north through some magnificent country towards Lake Trasimino. Its a very large lake and we stayed on it a couple of years ago I think. Anyway this year we stop at a sosta at Contrado Castello, amongst the trees, nice shade and has all the facilities. 

Lovely spot under the trees at Contrado Castello

 

There is a lovely old town up the hill which we visit next morning before moving to the opposite side of the lake and the camp site we had stayed at previously. 

Gorgeous ceiling in the old town

We make heavy use of their washing machines. Next day its back on the road and we hit the motorway, minor roads in Italy are rubbish and the toll roads are cheap although very boring. We stop at a sosta in Sasso Marconi just south of Bologna, its has power and we need the aircon as we are soft. Its getting very hot here in Europe and first thoughts are of shade and power for fans and aircon. Lovely spot here though and seems a popular hotel and restaurant where we are parked up. Its feet up and books out for the rest of the day in the cooler van. Next morning its more of the same and we travel north on the motorway until we reach the outskirts of Venice and another tree lined camp spot with power. Plenty of people venturing into Venice with the bus but it must be stinking hot in there with temps reaching 38 degrees. Not our idea of fun thats for sure, we manage some time outside in the shade but movement is kept to a minimum. Although later we do manage a game of boule in the shade.

Camping near Venice

Our day begins at Lidl next morning and a welcome stock up of necessary items, once we leave Italy we know that many of the day to day items we use wont be available. Having spent the last 2 and half months in Italy we are on the way out and we make our way north to the Dolomites and sensational scenery, eventually stopping near Sappada amongst the towering mountains. 

Dolomites in view now

The Dolomites

Its now the 28th of June and we wind our way up through the mountains, hairpin after hairpin turn until we reach the top and cross the border in Austria. Its back down the mountain and we make our way to a purpose made motor home stop at Gailberg. Set amongst the alpine woods and snow fields its picturesque and cheap. Perfect for the evening.

Only 74km but a fair drive

Dinner at Gailberg Austria

 Next day our drive takes us through stunning landscapes, Austria can be so picture perfect. We stop at Flachauwinkl and camp next to the river, this is another ski area and if you google it on the google maps you will see the stunning winter shots. By evening we are joined by a few another travellers and a couple of caravans.

Stunning Austria

More Austria

Flachauwinkle stop

 Tomorrow we are heading to Hallstatt and plenty of jaw dropping pics so will finish this blog now and post Hallstatt once we have been.