August 2017: Still Norway

It’s the 15^th August 2017 and we awake at our campsite in Bodo to the ever-persistent rain. Our stop has facilities so we empty our grey water, toilet, fill with fresh water and fuel and head of in the pouring rain. Eventually the rain eases as we come to the junction of the E6 where we had crossed a few days earlier and this time we turn south, stopping again at the Arctic Centre where we find the Kings Guards are preparing a show of some kind. Unfortunately it’s not on for a few hours so don’t get to stay and watch it but decide to drive on to Mo I Rana through the numerous road works again. It’s a heavy drive, with sections quite narrow and confronting with large trucks and a  couple of narrow misses that don’t do the heart rate much good; we eventually stop at a picnic site on the E6 for some lunch and a few quiet deep breaths. I spy a camper stop off the main road about 40 minutes away and we head there, it is a car park next to a tavern and motel at the top of the mountain in Korgenfjellet, incredible views and a good place to stop and make camp. I walk up through the surrounding hills to find more views, lakes and isolated homes, plus the sun comes out and the world is a different place.

Our camp stop view, can’t buy this…..

Unfortunately we wake to more rain, so we pack up and head down the mountain to join the E6 south to Trondheim. Feeling tired today with the driving, the heavy rain and tight roads wear you out pretty quickly. It’s a long way down to Trondheim with not much in between apart from mountains, forests and lakes, which would be great to stop at, but the weather doesn’t encourage us so we keep driving and eventually stop at Grong , yes that’s correct its Grong and seems a nice spot, located on the fishing highway apparently. We camp up at a picnic spot off the highway and rest for tomorrow’s further drive to Trondheim. We awake to a fine day and head off enjoying the views and an easy drive, plus manage to score a LPG fill easily and empty all our tanks at a camp stop. Trondheim does not offer the same ease, we head to a selected camper stop to find it full due to an expo ( salmon expo I think) just nearby that is on, next stop we try doesn’t exist and the last one we have is also full so looks like we wont be visiting Trondheim. It’s a bit late but I do read that its difficult to park here, no kidding, sometimes they just don’t want you to visit. It’s a shame as apparently the town is nice and the weather is fine so would have been a good stop for us. Next option is to drive on, and we do for a few more hours exiting the E6 and taking the E39 towards Alesund. We eventually stop at the end of the road before needing a ferry to cross, our stop is Halsanaustan, the view is across the fjord and we watch the ferries continuously coming and going picking up all the vehicles for the crossing. The rain returns at 7.30pm just as I cook the BBQ, great timing.

Camping on the fjord

View from the ferry across the fjord

Just a note, we are still way above the top of Scotland and our latitude is still on a par with Iceland, can’t really expect the weather to be anything but unpredictable. This morning Friday the 18^th August we pack up and drive the 50m to catch to ferry across from Halsanaustan to Kanestruam, they run every half an hour and its about $50 for our van. Catching these ferries can be quite expensive but if you look at like a mini fjord cruise, it’s cheap. From up near the bridge I can view all around and I’m the only one there, it’s quite amazing. Once we disembark we continue following the E39, the day is fine and the views spectacular, really recommend this route through to Molde. Certainly some vistas remind me of New Zealand, even some of the architecture on the houses is familiar, quite amazing. From Molde we take the 64 route, which again asks for more superlatives and we end up crossing the famed Atlantic Road that bridges the islands for about 8km, quite spectacular. We stop and camp just past the end with bridges in view and sun shining, really need to rest rather than drive so it works out well. We watch many small boats come in with some good catches of fish and enjoy a beautiful sunset over the water.

Norway Atlantic Road

Atlantic Road

Camp site view at sunset

Next morning is clear but the clouds look ominous as we head off and again cross the Atlantic road and its bridges, turn off and follow the small 663 route to Bud, passing through many small villages, its quiet and looks peaceful. Back at Molde we line up for the ferry crossing and charged $74 for the half hour crossing, ouch ( funny but that turns out cheap). The rain now hits and as we disembark and the visibility is not good so we head up about 20 minutes on the E39 and park up in a picnic area to see how it pans out. Would like to go to Alesund but not much point if we can’t walk around. We end up just staying put and see what tomorrow brings. Good guess, it brings more rain, continuous and low cloud. We head off and drive to the Geiranger fjord, the views on the way are amazing even though they are through the window screen, if it was clear it would be spectacular. Again we decide to stop and see how it goes at a camp stop along the 60 route, we don’t leave as it just rains all day. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Well we woke early, as the sheep who inhabit these areas all have bells on their necks, so you happen to hear the “cow bell” ding dong all the time as they are up at the crack I think and foraging around the vans parked here. Anyway it’s not raining the clouds are ominously low. We clear up and head off down towards Stryn and Loen following the 60 route. Really these roads are just amazing for the scenery, the fjords just appear round the next corner and villages are all picture postcard perfect. We encounter our first lot of cruise ships parked at Leon, where they are all loaded onto the tour buses and head off. Leon has a new sky lift and walk in the mountains and we are here to check it out, unfortunately as we look up the sky lift disappears into the clouds so we figure we will wait a while and see if the clouds clear. About an hour or so later its not looking that great so we toss a coin and head off, maybe we will return one day. We continue along route 60 before leaving at route 5 and winding our way through the mountains, fjords and anything else Norway can throw at you, the day stays fine and we enjoy the landscape as we make our way across towards Flam. We stop midway at Kaupanger and camp in front of the fjord with million dollar views, some days it all just pans out perfect.

Million dollar camp site view

Norway, just stunning at every turn

Loen Norway

Crazy but true, this a view heading from Loen

Perfect

August 2017: Norway

Its Sunday the 14^th August and we break camp and head off down the E10 towards the island of Vestagoy. There is a Viking museum on the road towards Eggum which opens at 10am so we head there and arrive just after 10. It’s blowing a gale and quite cold but we venture in and pay the fee, 200 Nok about $30 each. There is a nice reconstruction of the Viking chieftain’s village and main building, but sadly no Viking boat, which disappoints us. Overall it is Ok but not really worth $30 with no Viking boat and that’s what we really wanted to see. By the time we leave its packed.

Reproduction Viking Kings head house

View from the church at the Vikings village

Well Eggum is supposed to be nice so we head over there and check it out, its well out of the way and along the narrow road, along the way I have to pull over to be passed by an Italian Motor home tour, must have been 25 motor homes in all, it’s a narrow road and not really suitable for that amount of traffic, but don’t tell the Italians. We return on our original path and hit the E10 again before leaving it and going onto the 815, a narrow rd that follows the coast around the south of Vestagoy. It’s a desolate and remote road with craggy cliffs and small villages dotted along the way. Tonight we camp in a picnic area on the 815 not far from Leknes with no chance of a BBQ as its blowing a gale and raining hard. We wake in the morning to storms and the van rocking from side to side with the wind, it doesn’t look good for today. Our path today takes us through the islands of Flakstadoy and Moskenesoy which I think are the best parts of the Lofoten islands. At times the mountains and rock seem from 10000 years ago, simply prehistoric when viewed up close with binoculars, the features are quite stunning. We do stop at numerous photo spots, vying with rain and wind to get a shot, unfortunately they do look a bit dull, just need more light but no luck I’m afraid. We travel the length of these islands in a few hours without the opportunity to get out and walk or stop for a few hours so end up at the port to catch the ferry about 1.30pm. There is not much else we can do and feel a bit guilty at the fact we have only spent 3 days here, unfortunately the weather gods are not with us so it’s the ferry to Bodo and $300 later. We were a bit concerned about the crossing with the weather, being a couple of landlubber’s, but the crossing was all good and took about 3 and half hours. Tonight we are camped in Bodo about 5 minutes from the ferry landing next to a service station, sometimes that’s the best you can do.

Surf beach (??) on the Lofoten Islands

Rugged Lofoten views

Campsite view on the Lofoten Islands

More Lofoten images, fish drying racks in the foreground

 

August 2017: Norway

We wake to our first day in Norway, the weather is bleak, drizzly, not cold but grey and overcast. We have a quick shower, breaky and we are off towards Mo i Rana then north to the Arctic Circle and beyond. Hell of a lot of roadwork’s going on from Mo i Rana, they seem to be rebuilding the whole road system. It’s a massive project with huge rock formations being cut out to make way for the road, so the progress is very slow generally about 50kph for about an hour or so. Some of the old sections are still in use and quite narrow, even narrower when a semi-trailer comes down the road, I give you the tip! We arrive at the Arctic Circle centre which obviously denotes you are crossing the Arctic circle latitude and check out the centre which is basically a tourist haunt so we have a chuckle and leave, not buying any funny hats today. It’s a big day on the road and we drive north through numerous tunnels and eventually stop at a dedicated motor home stop at Innhavet right on the water with amazing views and we are joined by about 20 vans for the night who are probably all as knackered as I am after that drive.

The Arctic Circle centre

Our camp stop at Innhavet

We have driven a long way in the last couple of days with the Lofoten (pronounce Looofeten, apparently) Islands our destination then we will head back down through Norway. Next morning we make our way up the E6 and stop at Bognes to catch the ferry across to Lodingen rather than drive around through Narvik. We manage to time it pretty well and arrive as the ferry pulls in. Not many in the line, about 10 cars and vans, couple of trucks, the fare is about $110 for the 1 hour ferry ride. Quite a reasonable swell on the crossing due to the weather. We disembark and head off on the E10 which runs right through the islands, the scenery is amazing and we turn off at the 868 towards Raften and a noted camper stop on the Trollfjord. This fjord is on the route of the famed Hurtigruten coastal ferry that travels up and down Norway. We set up for a few hours just hoping we timed it right to see it pass through but alas it didn’t so we move on rather than paying to stay overnight. We try a few places off the main track but nothing seems right and eventually camp just off the E10 in a picnic area with about 5 other vans and a guy on a bicycle and tent. I manage to do a BBQ while the weather is ok.

Magic view from our camp site

 

Subdued Lofoten Island

Classic Norwegian church

 

 

August 2017: Sweden to Norway

So we manage to clear Stockholm central quite easily, the traffic is fine maybe as we are early I’m not sure,  and make our way to Lake Siljan and the Town of Mora.  Lake Siljan is set in mid Sweden and I had figured this as a good route up through Sweden before we cross into Norway. We are a bit disappointed, it’s a bit bland ( like a Volvo) nothing like Lonely Planet made it out to be, a I heard someone say its like travelling through an Ikea catalogue. We camp at Mora with other vans on the outskirts of the town, have a look around the town and foreshore but doesn’t really do much for us. No hanging around here and next morning we head off towards Stromsund and the start of the Wilderness Road.  But all of a sudden we are having trouble with our internet hook up, it seems that since last year the IP Three has changed the rules and have a maximum download of data per month after that they charge like Telstra roaming, expensive. I manage to find a free wi-fi in Ostersund and spend a pleasurable hour with on-line chat, where I eventually get some help from the complaints department after they upgraded me from the standard chat. Unfortunately it doesn’t end there and we head to a McDonald’s for their free wifi and manage to speak to a tech who gets us on-line. Little did we know that we need to sort this issue out, especially as I need access for work and don’t want to be left off-line. It’s now about 5.30pm and we decide to head towards Stromsund as our Ostersund stop has disappeared. About an hour later we arrive at a dedicated motor home parking area, join about 10 other vans and camp for the night. Thank god for gin and tonic.

In depth planning going on here….

There are many roads through Sweden that are promoted, just like at home, not sure why I chose this particular road but I do remember speaking to a Swedish lady who gave me some tips on this one. From Stromsund we head off on route 342 which takes us a circle path through high country and lakes, the first 50km or so are standard Swedish forests, pine trees galore and winding roads. At one point we approach lake with a narrow entry into a parking spot, so we stop and take in the amazing views and isolation here. Also manage to help a German couple who arrive and manage to get their front wheels on a slippery slope and just kept skidding as they tried to reverse out. Brought back memories of last year when we had the same issue. Beautiful spot would have loved to stay but we move on and reach Jormvanett where the sun is shining and we spy a campsite. We are desperate for some washing so we decide to stay, especially after we find out it’s a free washing machine and dryer which normally they slug you 4 or 5 euro per wash. Vic spends the rest of the afternoon back and forwards doing every bit of washing we have, the sun manages to stay out all afternoon just for us and we get it all done. It’s not easy getting your washing done through Sweden and this was a great find out of the blue. No need to turn the jocks inside out anymore! The campsite is set right on the lake and we watch a number of people head out in there tinnies to fish the area, mind you I only saw one come back with a catch but most where still out there.

Tiny stop off the road that we managed to pull into

Really quite amazing…

Taken for our camp spot, that’s not us 🙂

 

 

Next morning we clean up and head out along the Wilderness Road, and this section is my favourite. We head up into the high country, eventually above the tree line and the scenery is amazing. The temperature drops and we are level with the remains of the snow, amazingly we see people camped along the road with caravans set up for a longer stay. Also a few Sami huts are dotted along the road, the Sami being the indigenous people of the northern Scandinavian region, their huts are like a tepee but made of timber. We continue and rather than go all the way to Vilhelmina we detour across to meet up with the E12 that will take us to Norway. We do about 20km on dirt rd, mostly in good condition but do hit some heavy pot holed sections and we seem to have a few extra squeaks now in the van. Eventually we make some tarmac and head towards Norway. It’s not long before we hit the border and get pulled over like everyone else. We do manage to ease through without a check, most other cars where being searched and we did have some apprehension on due to strict controls on alcohol across the border. Luckily I seemed to smile at the right time, said I had 3 bottles of wine (not 30!) and off we went. Stopped about 400m after that at a large parking area and set up camp. We are now in Norway…

Camped at the top of Sweden, not for us.

Picture postcard Sweden

 

August 2017: Sweden

It’s an early start today and the gypsies are all up already,  it was a quiet night and we have a quick wash, pack up our kit and leave heading towards Stockholm. The weather isn’t great, its Saturday so we figure we will stop on the way and head into Stockholm on Sunday, maybe it will be a better day. The drive is easy on the motorway and we have Mariefred as a destination, just happens to have a castle, what a coincidence! Our park by the marina has disappeared, and most comments point to parking at the castle car park so we head there. Man it must be popular here, 4 tour buses lined up and we haven’t seen one for ages. Any way we park up among 10 or so vans plus numerous cars and wait out the storm that is passing overhead. Once it has passed we head off to check out the castle and town, it’s a nice spot on the lake, the castle is good and the town is Ok but a bit touristy. The lake and marina are nice, with many homes set up with amazing views. There is a miniature steam train as well, which I quite like, it’s very authentic and travels around the town perimeter, no I wasn’t allowed a ride on it. Once we return we just camped up thinking this is good spot, by about 6pm most people had left including all the vans. I wasn’t too sure about the parking laws so had a look at the signs again and pretty sure you can’t park here between 11pm and 6am. So we head off to find another spot, behind the fire station was suggested on-line, no that didn’t feel too good, next to the service station, tried that, no better off back at the castle car park and see what happens. we pull out and head there as Vic spots motor homes out of the corner of her eye to the right, so we head there to find a newly laid out camper van spot, with free elect hook up and only about 6 Swedish vans set up. Perfect spot and we pull in, set up and camp for the night.

Castle at Mariefred

Nice, I will take the west wing

Next morning we are off early and head into Stockholm. Being a Sunday we know the traffic will be better, it’s a city so have to expect some issues. Again we have our parking destination in google maps, and apart from minor disconnection problems through the tunnels we manage to find our spot, or more correctly nearly find our parking spot. Its gone, seems to be some reconstruction work and I simply can’t find it. We park nearby and I head out by foot to see if we can approach it ant other way. In the mean time Vic has some visitors from the UK, Alistair and Andrea, and they are swapping stories as I return. Always nice to have a chat in English when you are travelling and they are really nice people. We try to camp here but the parking machine wants to charge us an exorbitant amount, after a quick consultation on the parking app we head off across the small bridge and park up along the waterfront about a 5 minute drive.

What a camping spot!

The rain is threatening so we have a coffee and watch as it descends and buckets down for about an hour. Eventually we head off, first across to the Vasa museum but the queue is way too long so we detour back around to the old centre, the palace and harbour. By the time we get back I head to the Vasa museum and walk straight in the view the only original 17^th century war ship in original condition. Amazing story on the ship, it sailed in 1628 and sunk within hours of being launched and was raised 300 odd years later still in shape. I had look around, the photos I tool don’t really do it justice so just google Vasa ship museum Stockholm to have a view. Our new mates had already left but left us a note and contact email so that was nice. We stay the night with 20 other vans and bonus its free on Sunday. We leave early Monday morning, the weather isn’t encouraging us to stay so by 7am we are back on the road.

 

Very Stockholm

Always on the water, view from the bridge

French accents on that architecture

Reasonable photo of the Vasa

August 2017 Sweden

Its an early start for us from our camp spot by the sea, although its not far, only a few minutes but we still head off with plenty of time to catch our ferry to Sweden. Bloody hell just as well as some twit lines up in the wrong area to catch the wrong ferry. So I manage to reverse out of the line, no doubt causing a few obtuse comments from those behind, anyway you always remember those times for some reason and get a laugh, at your own expense.

So after all that drama we have joined the right queue, the right ship, and roll on board with all the others. Its about a 3 1/2 hour journey, no great issues, the ship seems full with a lot of walk on traffic and compared to other ferries we have caught its full.

So to elaborate our ferry is from Denmark to Sweden and we depart at Gothenburg or Goteburg in Swedish. I have a parking destination once we arrive already in the google directions and once we disembark its only a few minutes till we reach there and park up. Basically its just a car park with a designated motor home area, no services just close to the centre. We unload the bikes, its about a 15 minute bike ride along designated bike paths so we head off to discover Gothenburg.

Its quite an easy ride following the waterfront, and once we arrive at the centre area we lock the bikes up, then walk around what is mainly a pedestrian area. There is a big market area undercover, which is very similar to many others we have visited,  shaped like a huge aircraft hanger and full of the usual gourmet sellers and food stalls, its nice but we head outside and have lunch from an Italian cafe which is good. We always enjoy the time we are out and not eating at the van, it doesn’t happen that often when you are traveling for a long time so you make the most of it when you can. We then decide to grab the bikes and tour around the streets, including the train station, parks and along the waterfront. It seems a nice city, has an amazing park in the middle and the ride back around the waterfront is great.

Pretty ordinary photo, but liked that big yacht in the background

We enjoyed Gothenburg, cities are always difficult with a motor home, and we luckily managed to view this one reasonable easily. Our night is spent in the car park, its pretty noisy with the trucks and traffic at all hours so a restless sleep all round. Early start and we head off, first call is to top our LPG tanks, which we manage eventually after a couple of disastrous attempts to hook up the hose to the UK fittings, eventually having to ask the lady on the till to help. I reckon it cost me double after the first attempt where the gas seemed to be going anywhere but in the tank! So maybe you can appreciate this, but every country has its own filling system and you need to match the adapters that hopefully you carry to match their outlet, once you do its easy, ha.

After that minor drama we head towards Stockholm but make our way via Rottle, with a stop at lake Vattern. We actually stop above the lake at a camper stop on our Aap then make our way down through the forest via the pathway to the lake and then up to a beautiful waterfall. Gorgeous spot here and the houses are all timber cottages set among the forest, quite idyllic. We could have camped here but decide to go further along the lake and stop at Granna.  Its a big parking area, there are many motor homes already set up so we park up as well and head down to the lake again. Its a bit touristy here, there is a big camp site adjacent and there is a ferry across to the island in the middle of the lake. Having driven enough today we decide to stay and set up camp and have a G&T.

Lovely waterfall

Today we are heading to Orebro, a destination recommended on the old Lonely Planet guide. First though a stop at Vadstena, I had spied a castle on the map and just cant go past them so a quick stop and check it out. It is a beautiful spot here,  we manage about 30 minutes between showers to have a look, really nice would have loved to stay a while. The rain comes and we head off to Orebro. On the way we spy an Ikea and Vic wants another double sheet and a couple of other items so we pull in. I need to mention here that buying alcohol is Sweden is a bit different. There are no liquor shops like we are used to, nor do the supermarkets sell alcohol, although there is plenty of alcohol free beer and wine if that your want. So the government controls it all and you need to go to one of their stores, and they are called “System Bolaget”, we found one here near Ikea. It was packed and I managed to get some OK wine, a bit more expensive that other parts of Europe but that is OK. We continue onto Orebro, sometimes you can head into these towns and jag a parking spot for a camper van but not today, so we head out a bit and find a large car park. Actually its not that far about 10 minutes on the bike to the centre so pretty close really just seemed further as when where driving around. Its another gorgeous town with a beautiful park and gardens with a canal running through the middle. There is an outdoor art exhibition on, although not sure if that is my version of art, but its different anyway. Nice place we really liked it, especially the park which is famous in Sweden.

Castle at Vadstena, its a ripper

 

We are not staying in this car park so we head off to another spot on our App, only about minutes away next to the river and there are about 6-8 vans there already so we park up and settle. Turns out its a bit of a gypsy spot and we have quite a few camp here but they are all good and there is no issue. Tomorrow we head across towards Stockholm but probably stop on the way.

This is a ripper too at Orebro

Orebro, a beautiful town

 

 

Denmark 2017 Aarhus

We tootle off from our farm stay and head to Aarhus and the destination is “Den Gamble By” an open air museum first opened in 1914 with reconstructed historical buildings from 1550 to the late 19th century (thanks wikipedia).  It opens at 10am and we manage to find a park in the street with 2 other vans and venture in. The weather so far is good and we have a good look around at all the different set ups, including all the old merchants, a great clock maker and small houses all set out as they where in 1700-1800 or so. Good move we went early, apart from being a Sunday the weather turns nasty and we just manage to make it back to the van before the heavens open up, and boy did they, I wouldn’t like to be back there now. We motor off in torrential rain, heading further north towards our destination for the ferry on Wednesday and park up half way to Aalborg at another farmers motor home set up. No one there but us, although a Dutch van from last night turns up, bit of a coincidence. Its time for books out, a nap and see what the rest of the day brings.. Not much just chill out, couple of drinks, dinner via the BBQ, a wine or 2 and off to bed, cant complain really can you?

Den Gamble By at Aarhus

Another at Den Gamble By

Today we are off to visit Aalborg, a town in the Jutland region of Denmark. We take a punt and head into the centre which sometimes can have disastrous effects in a motor home, but we manage after crossing the river twice to find a large car park just near the centre. Its a nice area, maybe a few too many shops, but worthy of a look. Just as well as after an hour the rain comes and we scamper back to the van and head off again, our destination a camper stop at Voersa on the east coast and adjacent to a compact marina. .

On the way I spy a castle:

Great castle at Voergaard

Its a pleasant stop, the views are nice of the marina and there particular huts, like the Brighton beach huts. Weather again not that friendly but not disastrous either, we have a pleasant stay, the next morning is bright and we slowly get ready to leave, enjoying the sunshine and cleaning up now we can get outside. Our ferry is tomorrow and its not far to Frederikshavn so we head off , do some grocery shopping when we get there and eventually park near the coast just a mile or so from the port. We walk along the coastal path, the sun is out, sort of, and people are coming in to the small beach areas to grab some sun. Further along is another marina, larger than the one at Voersa and there is plenty of activity with maintenance work on the little huts, plenty of painting and trimming of edges.

Marina at Voersa

Voersa marina

Tomorrow we head to Sweden, first time for both of us…