Europe Spain and Portugal part 3

Its Wednesday the 10th of May and we leave Bathala and its huge church heading south where we make our way up to the top of the hill above Manjoulo to an isolated spot overlooking the countryside and beside an old windmill and its remaining mill. The wind is strong but we park up for a few hours hoping for it to settle.

 

Its not happening and rather be stuck up here being buffeted all night we move down to a camper spot at the town of Porto de Mos. Its not great but will do for the night, we have another couple of vans join us plus the usual Portuguese ones parked there permanently I think. Its not a great night, a road runs behind us and tends to wake you as soon as a car passes plus the trucks start early around 5am. Just so you know its not all peaches and cream travelling in a motor home, you take the good with the bad.

Today we head to Obidos, a village we visited maybe 9 years ago with a hire car and AirBnB accomodation. So its a bit different approaching it with a motor home. We park up in a dusty carpark near the main walls and pull up behind a rental van from the Netherlands. I spy a small kangaroo sticker near the number plate and sure enough we have some Aussies travelling Europe for 6 months in a rental. So a good chat is in order as these are the first we have seen this year. 
The old village of Obidos is as amazing as the first time we visited, with its intact fortified walls that you can walk to the winding streets filled with old stone homes. Definitely a lot more tourists that when we first came but that may just be the time of day, its well worth a visit if you are anywhere near. 

   

After a couple of hours walking the walls and streets we leave Obidos and make our way to a park up down a dusty off road track to a spot by Lake Obidos. Lovely spot under the trees, the wind has picked up a bit but we seem sheltered here for the night. There are quite a few parked up along the lake all via a different access track. The morning brings more wind, we probably would have stayed if it was calm, its a lovely spot and there is a walking track that seems to follow the lake which would have been nice to walk. Plus our neighbours leave so we would have to leave the home parked on its own as we walk and that doesn’t feel too right.

We make our way across to Baleal beach near Peniche hoping for some beach time. There is a parking area near the beach where we pull into and join maybe 30 surfer vans. Its pretty windy but we manage a walk down to the beach after a bit of lunch and face a minor sandstorm as we walk into the wind. After a quick look around and we head back to reassess the situation.
 

There’s not much here for us if we cant get to the beach so we head back inland and drive for a couple of hours or more before stopping at Vila Nova da Barquinha and a camper parking spot. Too tired to go any further so we decide to stay, the wind is still strong but seems to be dropping. We have maybe 6 vans here by nightfall. To set the scene, it Friday night, we are in a larger than normal town and there are plenty of high rise flats around. Normally we would have taken this all into account and moved on, especially as its Friday night, but its been a very tiring day on the roads, we visited a couple of stops before this one and neither where suitable so had to keep driving on. Around 3am we awake to yelling and screaming voices, a look out the window shows 4 young guys doing drugs and getting aggressive and yelling. This goes on for about an hour, we are ready to drive off if they start to get near the van and maybe cause some damage. Im sure the other vans parked up are doing the same. Luckily they head off around 4am and we retreat back to bed, not a great night and we awake to church bells and calmness. 

Its time to find a chill out spot and we drive across Portugal before stopping at Vila Velha de Rodao and a lovely parking spot near the  river Targus. We park up have lunch and then a nice nap, just perfect. The river is stunning but hardly a sole on it apart from some canoeists practicing.
   

Nearby they have uncovered sites that go back 30000 years, its quite incredible that there where once elephants, buffalo and other animals roaming here. We spend 2 days here and enjoy the surrounding area and a walk along the river.  Vans and motor homes come and go but we don’t get much interaction from this lot so its a quiet stop. But we do enjoy the stop and leave feeling better for the rest as we head across Portugal and cross into Spain. We stop for the afternoon on the Portugal side of the border under the shade of a tree near Zarza la Major and later cross the river and park up in the carpark overlooking the river. A very quiet and secluded spot for the night, just how we ordered it.

 

Its another of those mornings, not a sole about, just the birds and the sky as we stretch and contemplate whats on for the day. Coffee of course and then there is just one road so we head that way. Its not really by chance we head here because we have read reviews on the overnight stop we are heading to, but most are in Spanish and when translated seem very religious but we head to Torre de Don Miguel and park up under the trees above the village. Little do we know whats in store for us…

Currently parked up is one motor home, I cant see there rego but I do get a “hiya” so think maybe English. Soon another big van pulls in, German and also get a wave and some sort of greeting that I cant hear. I hear plenty of laughter from these two vans that are now next to each other. Before long we meet them, Ross from Devon and a lovely man from Bavaria who we never found out his name. Very friendly and we enjoy a good chat. There has been mention of Maria, she who appears on the reviews as Santa Maria, who is the local meeter and greeter for campers. Its not long before she turns up, is astounded we are from Australia, and even though she hardly speaks any english we are welcomed with open arms. Our German mate does most of the translating and we are invited to a wine and food tasting tomorrow night if we decide to stay.  Around 7pm Maria arrives and parks next to our van, she calls the Germans over and we gather around the picnic table, before long she has rounded up the English as well and we all sit around the table. Another van arrives and she already knows its a Spanish van as they have olive oil for her and we begin to sample oil from her stash. The Spanish bring beer and the English offer their local beer from Devon plus some cider also. We have a small party going here. Well that makes it up for us and we will stay for 2 days.

  

Next morning I take a walk down to the village and then up through the hills along the road. There is hardly a car on the road and I pass a few morning walkers, all locals, some with a walking stick but still managing it. Its a beautiful walk in the morning, the trees overhang the road and the ancient stone walls follow you up as you go, plus the birds are awake and singing, its a great feeling to be alive. Along the way I notice they are setting up a market in the square so we head back to the village square after a clean up and coffee. Its not a great market but we manage some cheese and salami from a local guy, the cheese is stunning and only around 20euro a kilo. A wonderful cured sheep cheese that we just cant get enough of. Its a lovely walk through the old town, its narrow winding streets with small homes here and there plus the odd renovation happening. These villages are not that dissimilar from Italy where the young leave and the place dies, but here there seems to be some life and optimism. We agree that the sense of community is what makes it feel different. Once we pass through the town we follow the signs to the old mill and fresh water swimming pool. That is a pleasant walk through old paddocks and small veggie patches scattered here and there. We eventually stumble upon the old mill and its tumbled down surrounds. The pool is nearly empty and a sign of the drought they have endured for a while. By the time we get back to the van we need a rest, maybe a nap, tonight we are off to a Bodega with Maria and the others.

   

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Europe Spain and Portugal part 2

Today is the 5th of May and we awake from a soundless night camped above the village of Marialva to a calm morning, there is no wind or rain its just around 10-12 degrees. How do you explain our start to the day that we experience everyday we travel in our motor home. Well I will try but I don’t think I will be able to convey the feeling you have meeting the day in a different place nearly everyday. First thing is we open the side door to a vast open area in front of us with the old castle in the distance and the sun rising in the east. The road below that leads into the town is quiet, an old man passes walking up the dirt track where we are parked and we exchange a Buon Dia, he doesn’t really show much interest in us apart from the hello. After that its just birds tweeting and a cloudless sky as we perform some age defying exercises to an audience of birds, ants and dust, they seem to laugh. After that we percolate a coffee, boil the kettle for a tea and decide where to today? I am always stunned by the morning environment as I stretch and look about thinking how bloody lucky am I to be here today, and then remember previous amazing spots and wonder where is next? There is always another spot waiting for us…..

   

So thats a normal start to the day! Bit over the top, hopefully not too pretentious but life is for living so make the most of it, don’t wait go now..

We trundle off from Marialva and head to Castelo Rodrigos with another castle in the sky. Unfortunately its a bit too small to stop here, we have a good look around the old town and castle before heading off and stopping at Pinhel.
  

Its a Friday and we really need a bit of a rest from driving so our motor home park-up looks just the spot. Its  another purpose made spot for motor homes in a small town where we can chill and rest. There a couple of French vans parked up but pretty quiet really so hopefully a quiet night ahead but never forgetting its Friday when the boys come out to play.

 

We do enjoy a peaceful night and after the normal morning routine we decide on a walk into the town of Pinhel, there’s a big castle so Im keen (duh). We initially walk through what would be described as the new town, big blocks of flats and pretty boring. The old town is as quiet as a mouse, no one is out and about. We make our way through the main square, up to the clock tower and around the old castle and its walls. The views are stunning across the olive groves, small farms and even smaller vegetable gardens, you just want to stay and plant some veggies, pull up a chair and drink the local wine. The old castle is great and for once they have some English on the plaques so we can get some local info. One we know we are able to stand back and see the stonemasons initials, the access for arrows, the small balcony and the corner pods for oil lights I think. The old village is the typical stone construction, some beautifully repointed, others with a collapsed roof. Its a common thread as we visit these old villages. We do enjoy the walk around, finding old steps up to the battlements and ancient churches that seem to be abandoned but are probably not. The rest of the day is back at camp, bit of cleaning and chilling that works just fine.

       

Next morning we trundle off and ease our way across Portugal, its Sunday and we find a lovely stop by the river at Lajeosa do Mondego and park-up next to a couple of other vans. Next door seems to be getting set up for a lunch but we cant seem to see any info. Short story is lunch was great no problem, just the few pissheads that stayed on and carried on all afternoon and evening that spoiled it. Apparently it was a celebration of the village that occurs every year, we where never quite sure what that actually was. Anyway as much as we where annoyed at the end of the day its their place. Next day we negotiate our way south and eventually park up adjacent a large lake and restaurant that is closed today. So we are on our own under the shade and decide this will do for the evening, nothing much else exciting to report, a quiet night without any issues.

Today we start to see a lot of people walking the roads and highways, most in high vis with some info on the back. At one point we had to turn around as we missed our turnoff and they where all walking on the road, it was stressful as they didn’t seem to care about all the cars and trucks passing close by. I really think they should have had safety cones or something we where terrified we might hit someone. I was very glad to make our turn off and head to the Roman ruins at Conimbriga where they allow overnight parking. Now you all know I love a Roman ruin and have visited my fair share so it was with some careful negotiating I managed to get here. I was half expecting to go in on my own but Vic decided to have a look as well. It was very impressive, probably the best mosaics we have seen. Overall a well laid out walk through the ruins with plenty of information and a nice little museum at the end. These Romans just never cease to amaze with their march across Europe and massive construction of towns and fortifications, definitely one to see. Our overnight stay was easy and peaceful.

       

Today we need a Lidl to restock our larder and we head south again passing hundreds and hundreds of these pilgrims walking along the road. Luckily they are on the opposite side of the road. We eventually work out why so many people are walking and its the pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Lady Fatima where legend says the Virgin Mary appeared before 3 children in 1917. The pilgrims walk from May to October and its on the 13th of these months where they celebrate this apparition. We must have passed thousands of people over a day or so. Anyway on our way down the road to Lidl we do pass the huge church of Batalha so once we complete our shop we do a quick reverse and head back the 5 minutes or so to Batalha which also just happens to have some motorhome service points so we can do a quick empty and refill. The church is quite amazing with its unusual roof that I have never seen before. It was worth a stop to see.

  

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Europe 2023 Spain and Portugal

Today is Thursday 20th of April and we cross from France into Spain through a maze of winding streets and traffic. Our destination tonight is San Sebastian a place Ive wanted to go to for years. Probably should have gone there 30 years ago. There is a dedicated motorhome stop there but current reviews note that its generally pretty full. We arrive around 1.30pm and of course there is a queue so we turn around and consider our other options. As most coastal places are these days its very busy and seems to have a big uni as well by the number of young people around. We park at the top of the hill and have a bite to eat while we consider the options. There’s not much so we reconfigure our plans, turn inland and head towards Pamplona. The beauty of being mobile with no commitment’s is that any option is open really. We end up parked in Beasain, outside a soccer ground, its a purpose made spot for motorhomes, we have all the facilities we need and it turns out to be a pretty quiet night, not much to show but its not always peaches and cream.

So the original plan was to travel across the north coast of Spain and then into Portugal, now we are heading across the mid-north of Spain basically parallel with our original very loose plan.

The morning begins with a heavy shop at Lidl supermarket which is just up the road. Of course Spain is popular for its ham and the isles are packed with every variety you need plus they seem to have a very large choice of meat and chicken compared to some countries. It would have cost us double back in Australia for the goods we bought today. We enjoy a lovely drive to the hill top town of Artajona with its medieval walls, castellated towers and church.

Our view driving into Artajona

Looks pretty good

We park up just below the entrance and are basically on our own overlooking the plains below. We walk through the town and along the old walls past the the church, its all locked up which becomes normal here in Spain and through the winding streets. Its so quiet, where is everybody? Maybe its siesta time, I’m not so sure, at times it seems as though the apocalypse has happened and its just us left. 
Mind you its a bloody lovely spot up here looking out, we enjoy another super quiet night after the wind dies down about 8pm. 

Great view for the evening

All on our own with this view

 
 

Does everyone know of the Camino’s in Europe? The main one I think is from France which is the camino of Saint James, I hope thats right, it starts at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and heads towards Pamplona and then westwards, about 750km I think. A friend of ours Carl is about to start the journey so we are super interested to view the area as we drive along. Its not long before we view some pilgrims walking in the distance, its raining so they have coloured ponchos on and stand out across the paddocks, quite a sight really.

Our drive takes us through Logrono a major stop on the camino trek, we spy more pilgrims as we head to a major campervan stop near the town. Once we park up we take a walk across the river and into the town of Logrono. The church is open so we check it out as generally they are all locked up. Looks like maybe a wedding or christening may be happening. Its very ornate inside, plenty of gold leaf on display. 

  

The motor home stop is fine but we move on to Elciego and park up there below the small village and church. We check out the fancy winery nearby but its a bit too fancy for us and they charge to go in. Lovely architecture though with a sweeping roof design that most have cost a fortune. Apparantly designed by Frank Lloyd-Wright designer of the Guggenheim museum, not sure but thats the rumour. The drive here is lovely and tracks along the local vineyards which are greener than the French at this time of year.

 

Its another trundle along the back roads of Spain, our first destination turns into a bit of a disaster with narrow winding roads disappearing into a small village and we end up reversing back down the hill, taking numerous wrong turns before landing at the rivers edge in Ona. Its a lovely granite stone village dominated by a massive church and town hall. A 30 minute walk takes it all in, the weather is on and off so you need to time it between rain squalls. After all the drama of the day its a nice spot to camp and put the feet up, we are joined by maybe 7-8 vans overnight but there is plenty of room and the bells stop ringing at 10pm.

We leave Ona next morning and drive through very quiet roads, hardly a car passes and its stress free driving. We turn off the minor road onto a smaller road that winds down to Orbaneja Del Castillo where we park up in a vacant car park. Its a quick bite to eat and then we head up to village. Now the original plan was to visit the waterfall, but that proves to be nice but not to the scale we have seen across Europe and in particular Slovenia. The main attraction turns out to be a cute winding stone village with spectacular stone out crops surrounding the area. When your camera is snapping at every opportunity its a pretty good guess that your are in a good spot. We do enjoy walking up and around the winding streets and rocky outcrops passing renovated homes and others needing a miracle to be resurrected. On our way walking into town we noticed a much better park up spot and move for the night. We are joined by another 3 vans by the morning. Great spot, lovely and quiet.

   

   

Its another slow drive once we leave Orbaneja, winding through the hills and farm yards, we are heading to a camper stop where we can empty our bits and bobs. We arrive at Aguilar de Campoo and complete our tasks before parking and walking into the town. We manage to walk down dog shit path which needs no explanation and cross a medieval stone bridge through the arches of the former gates and into the town square. There is a market on and we do manage to snaffle some lovely cheese, a cured sheep cheese which is just divine. We just walk on through the town and once I spy the old castle on the hill its up and away folks. Old news but I do love a castle regardless of its state, and sometimes the more dilapidated it is the better. There is a purpose made walk that takes you past the old church and up to the outlooks of the old castle. No one else is here and the views are great, the old castle is in ruins but there are some parts that inspire your imagination and thats all I need. Its perfect and gives us another hook to hang our trip on. 
We do spy a better way to walk back from our height and once we descend we find the river, the old gates and a lovely pathway that follows the river back to our van, great stop we really loved it.

   

Its not really a great spot to stop for the night at this park up so we move on and head off west towards Portugal. We find a lovely spot to park for the night at Herrera, right next to the canal, its flat and quiet. Maybe in summer its different but tonight we are alone and loving it. Still a bit too cold to get the BBQ out but it wont be long.

  

We are still heading west and seem to be on the main pilgrim route considering the number of walkers and bike riders we pass, we stop for lunch by an old church on the pilgrim route, the church has a 3 bell tower thats typical for this area. When you stand back you can see the huge stork nests on each bell head. They are still nesting there so maybe its too early for their trip to Slovenia.

 

We eventually stop at Astorga, opposite a small stadium that operates as a bull fighting ring when its on. Its a camper stop so there a couple of vans here and although its not that inviting we park up and take a walk. The initial steps pass the concrete flats and abandoned buildings, I’m still trying to tie all this in to the Franco period but so far have very little knowledge of that time. Once we reach the summit we find an amazing church, or really more like a cathedral plus a castle designed by Gaudi of Barcelona fame. The castle feels fake, more like what you might find in Texas built by a local billionaire? Further on we find some great architecture more deserving of the area, and an Art Deco building suspended on the corner takes our eye. We walk on following the old fortress walls and return to the church square. It will never stop amazing us what you can find in this world when you look outside the normal tourist attractions. We enjoy another pretty quiet night with a few others, no bullfight so that was a bonus.

    

Next morning we head off and meander further along the road, no real horses pulling our cart but its a slow trip nevertheless. At times you have no idea where you will end up and just follow the road in a general direction. Today we land at Pueblo-de-Sanabria at a lovely spot by the river with a castle and old town overlooking us. Its 320 steps to the top but well worth the effort, amazing views and historic stone village. We are joined by a few UK travellers at our stop and enjoy some camper chat about travels and questions on how you drove from Australia. Of course we are pretty used to that question and manage to get a laugh or two with our variations on how we got here. Very nice people though and we enjoyed the chat.

    

Its tempting to stay but we decide to keep moving and head further south and into Portugal where we pull into a carpark near a lake. Not much here, the weather is pretty ordinary so we park up and see what happens. Its the “do we stay or move” time. After a while you settle, if there is any suspicious behaviour you move. So apart from some fading donuts on the rocky paving we agree its ok to stay but we move to a more isolated spot a few meters away. We enjoy a peaceful night, one van joins us around 10pm and thats it.

Next morning we walk the lake its around 2km or so, there is no one else on the path and its just lovely and peaceful, a great way to start the day. Its back on the N2 a well known track through Portugal and we start to hit the wine area, the roads begin to wind up and down through the vineyards and the scenery is spectacular. We are heading to Douro territory and eventually park up at Peso-da-Regua on the Douro river. Its a purpose made area for motor homes and we manage to snaffle one of the last ones on the rivers edge. Pretty good spot so we stay for 2 days. In the mean time we walk the river as far as we can go, cross the bridges and take it all in. It appears to be a staging point for boat cruises up and down the Douro and once we spy all the tourist buses and wonder where they all went we now know. We spend the rest of the time watching boat traffic and relaxing for a bit due to our nice little spot. Some people stop and ask about Australia but not many, some just wave. 
 
    

After 2 days we decide to move and after a Lidl shop we follow the Douro river on the N222 which winds its way along the river before we turn right and up the hills to a winery stop at Quinta Da Padrella, a small winery that offers free parking for motorhomes overnight. In fact they also offer a shower, toilet and swimming pool for those that need it which is amazing generous really. There is a few here already and we park up for a bit of lunch. Mid afternoon Jose comes over and explains the wine tour and details of the property. We have a wine tour at 3pm, bit early for us but you have to do what you can. We are joined by another 3 couples, one Belgium and 2 British. The tour is done in English and we our treated to the history of the vineyard, the varieties planted, the production and of course the best part the tasting. Jose does a great job and we leave knowing a little more about wine which really is the point I suppose. Its a nice spot so we stay 2 days and chill out with a bit of walking around the vineyards and olive groves.

   

Next morning its a short drive up the hill to Barcos where we can empty and fill. Nearby is a surprising find of an old stone church from the 12th century, its a quiet and serene spot.

  

Heading across inland Portugal we find a lovely waterfront stop at Vila da Ponte. After trying a couple of off grid spots that didn’t suit we park up here with a great view of the water. The weather isn’t too great, bit cold, windy and wet so we sit and wait it out. Later we venture out and walk part of the purpose built walkway following the water, it looks great and hopefully tomorrow we can venture further. By evening we are joined with another van from Belgium, its a quiet night.

Morning brings better weather and we tackle the walk following the water, across a couple of bridges, one that reminds us of Japan and the red torri and further on through old vineyards, a strawberry farm and forest. Its a lovely walk, about 7km by the time we return and pack up to leave. Its these magic places that offgrid travel rewards you with, you wont find this on trip adviser, its just luck and a little knowledge I suppose. Hopefully these photos do it justice.

  

Off we go and head east towards the Spanish border, along the way my head spins with the sight of a castle, its a quick u-turn Im off. Not another castle I hear as I dash out the door, camera in hand. Its magic, the stonework is being restored and looks amazing. Further round they have medieval launching arms, probably made to throw large rocks at the infidels. Meantime I get lost in the maze of old streets that surround the fort and have to use the towers as some sort of sighter as I try to find my way back to the van. A couple of turns and Im there. Lovely spot though, its called Penedono, well worth a visit.

  

Once back we head off and arrive at Marialva which just so happens to have an old fort. The parking is too steep, the village very small, so we park up on a small level clearing that is on the way into the village. Our view is the old fort/castle. At this point I do seem to be getting some looks regarding castles and piles of rocks, but I ignore them and we head off into a very quiet village, a castle that is locked up, a large tourist bus that must have brought the numerous Americans we see in a flash restaurant and a lovely stone village. Mind you all villages here are built out of stone so you expect that but as you walk you see renovated homes and others that have no roof. Im sure you will find this one on AirBNb and trip-adviser. Our overnight spot is magic, very quiet and included a lovely view of the castle.

  

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Europe 2023 France

Today is Thursday April the 6th, tomorrow is Easter Friday. We arrived back in Amsterdam last night about 8pm and made our way to a local hotel. This morning we arrange an Uber and head to our van storage about 15 minutes away. Peter has already bought our van out and its ready to go, or maybe not. Every year we have internet issues and it appears my new sim card wont work so our traffic direction via the internet wont either. Its always very frustrating and raises the stress levels too much. Miraculously we get some connection and head off, we don’t need to go far as we have already arranged a park for the night with electricity hook up so we can charge the fridge and batteries. Plus we need to buy some food, water, wine and other bits. We manage all this, park up and get sorted for the night ready to take off tomorrow. We had originally thought we would head to Kulkanhof the big tulip garden that has opened for the new season but had some negative comments regarding crowds over easter so decided that wasn’t an option, we are a  bit over crowds at the moment. Also its cold and wet which isn’t great either.

Stocked up and ready to go we head off south, the route is through and around large cities and the traffic is intense, its quite a drive before we stop by the river in Belgium at Merbes-le-Chateau. Its a quiet spot but the temperature is pretty cold. The fisherman start arriving around 5.30 am next morning and are strung out along the rivers edge with all their gear by the time we leave around 8.30am.

No fishermen yet

Our evening view

  

Its a much more casual drive today along minor and back roads and before long we are heading into Champagne. We could have taken either of 2 routes south but decided this way and will come back through Brittany and Normanby when we return. The small village of Mutigny overlooking Ay and the champagne area is a favourite stop of ours and we park up well satisfied with todays journey. We take a walk up through the village past hilltop vineyards and into the forest. At this time of the year the champagne vines are all cut back and if you look up closely the tiniest buds are starting to appear, in a few months the hills will be covered in green.

The magic of champagne

Next morning we amble down to the river park spot we also have used many times and love the walk along the canal. No point heading off and driving miles we have plenty of time. Its Sunday morning and we walk along the canal for a couple of kilometres, cross the bridge and head into Ay towards a small supermarket I saw was opened. Just need a couple of bits and some wine and grab what we need. Ay is lovely small village with an impressive church that was ringing all its bells as we walk by. There are also some very tempting pastry shops, we do succumb to a quiche Lorraine but leave the bread and cakes alone, memories of last year and expanding waist lines are still too vivid. Just to emphasise the point we head off later in the opposite direction for a long walk to Bisseuil where a typical French market is on. Not a food one unfortunately, this is your bric a brac market, basically a lot of junk but they seem to like this stuff, why I don’t have any idea. At home its on the verge free.

A view we love

Time to head south and we trundle about 100km through the French countryside before stopping at Paisy-Cosdon and a car park at  the large lake. It would have been nicer at the lakes edge but it seems to be for fishermen only. We do spy a French van parked up but must be a licensed fisher maybe? We take a walk around the perimeter, must be just  pumping in summer, perfect for camping and BBQ’s. Its a quiet night, one other van pulls in but at this time of the year its just a few of us around.

That’s us down there

View up the river

Its another cold morning, we have been putting the heater on to get some warmth happening the last few days. We travel about another 100 km today, slowly along minor roads and park up next to a canal at Montbouy. One side is a school and the other a canal boat that seems uninhabited. Looks a quiet spot, not much happening except when the kids come out to play, then its noisy but they go home soon. Then its very quiet and we enjoy a peaceful night. 
 
 

And its another cold morning as we head off travelling south before parking up at along the river at Saint-Hilaire-de-Court. You have to love the names, sounds like King Charles might appear! Its a lovely spot, just a few dog walkers, couple of vans park up further along but its a long track along the river so plenty of room. Still cold so we are snuggled up in the van, camper van fever has yet to appear. For those not used to that, it means being locked up inside with nowhere to go, I know you don’t feel sorry for us.

Another magic camp spot

  

Its another day trundling through France and we pull over next to a small river. Above is the town of Gargilesse, a small but very cute town with impressive chateau, although its closed. We meander around the town for the afternoon managing to beat the showers that inevitably came later. There is a sign that mentions flooding but we should be ok.

    

Today we make it to Bussiere-Galant and its getting very cold, the beanie is now out and the gloves are on. We park up for the night near the lake its a quiet night. Next stop is St-Vincent-Jalmoutiers we are now in the Dordogne driving through small quiet villages, patches of forest then fields of yellow rapeseed or canola. Again its a quiet park-up, only a few dog walkers around at this time of year. Probably in summer its full of fetes and markets.

Common view as you pass in France

From here we are heading to Bordeaux a part of France I never stepped foot on. We park up at a winery near St-Emilion, its Sunday so tastings are probably closed. We are directed to our spot by what appears to be the grandmother, not too sure plus she speaks no English, but we manage with our twisted attempts at French. At one point she is asking if we want power and points to the headlights of the van and for a few moments I think she is pointing out the faulty globe before realising what she means. All a good laugh and we settle in. The wines of St-Emilion are well known for their quality and of course price too. We walk to the village, its about 2-3kms before we arrive past the old Roman fort. Its your typical winding steep village with a river running through the centre. No shortage of people lunching or shopping for wine, we pass the more touristy parts and head up through the small lanes and to the other side with lovely views from all directions. Our walk back is a bit longer, looks like we took a wrong turn somewhere and the road is busy with cars, eventually we find a cross road and the sanity of no cars racing past. We did hope for a wine tasting but after a chat with a young lady we are left confused and not sure if we have one or not. Generally you will see people heading off around 6 or so but it looks quiet so we have our own.

Those cans are for candles

  

We leave this morning around 9.30 and make our way firstly to the supermarket to stock up then to a sports store to buy a bike tube. Somehow I had developed a puncture in my bike while it was locked up in the van for 6 months. I did have a spare tube which I used the other day but with a rookie mistake I didn’t check the inside of the tyre where there was a small needle point and once I replaced it the tyre went flat again. I did feel my dad looking down going you twit why didn’t you check the inside of the tyre first! I do remember him doing that when he used to fix my tyres as a kid so I have no excuse really. Anyway its fixed now so no excuses to get the bikes off once we have some decent weather. Our stop tonight is Pestoury winery, a small family run winery with Mum, Dad, daughter and grandfather who started it with 2 hectares back in the day. We have a lovely tasting and are joined by a Dutch couple who we had chatted to this afternoon. The daughter who is 24 gave us the most comprehensive tour and information we have ever received at a winery. She obviously has great passion for the wine making business and we came away a lot more knowledgeable about wines in this area than when we started including the struggles with climate change and increased costs. Lovely wine though and we bought a few bottles of course. I think what I really like is the basics, the vine trellises are all supported on hand cut stakes, the wire is old and twisted and the warehouse hasn’t changed in 100 years, plus its a genuinely run family business.

Our view of the vineyard

And the old warehouse

  

Today we travel to the other side of Bordeaux and enter the medoc area, the drive in wasn’t great and I did think at one point that we had made a mistake coming here but once we arrived it was all good. We stop for the night at Chateau La Branne, another family run winery but a step up from yesterday. We are parked up on their lawn in front of the vineyards that stretch out across the paddocks. Its a little out of the way here so we don’t see any other motor homes or vans while we are here. We have another tasting at 4.30 today with the lady of the manor, not as informative as yesterday but we manage to tease out some info from her and again increase our knowledge of the area. Absolutely amazing wine, so we stock up and enjoy a peaceful night in the vineyards.

What a view for the evening

  

Today we continue our journey south, we do try to stay on minor roads but occasionally we end up among the trucks and traffic. As always we have our SatNav on no toll roads and tend to veer off unexpectedly when a toll section appears. If anything it makes the trip more interesting. Tonight we have been to a couple of stops and moved on as they didn’t do much for us. We end up at a parking spot on a very minor road that is a bird watching area. Its very quiet and in the morning all you hear are the birds.

Quiet night and no bird watchers

Off road entrance to our nights accommodation

 

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